I challenge you to find a better bang for your buck in New York…seriously, I’m talking about home cooked Indian food in multiple courses, neatly packaged (often) under $10. Lunch is even less expensive. For the uninitiated, “Curry Row” is collection of Indian restaurants neatly tucked away on East 6th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues in the heart of the East Village, and also spills around the south corners on both bordering Avenues. East 6th Street was my first ethnic food bargain that I stumbled upon nearly 20 years ago as an “economically challenged musician”, and even though many restaurants have come and gone on Curry Row, it remains a fun and spirited dining destination for savvy and thrifty New Yorkers.
The Deal: The majority of restaurants on Curry Row offer a “special” prix fixe menu, and that’s what you’re there for. It includes a bowl of mulligatawny soup, an appetizer (pakora or samosa), papadum, main course, rice, naan bread, and often a coconut pudding or small dish of ice cream for dessert. For lunch, this will typically set you back between $6.95 – $7.95, and for dinner $8.95 – $10.95! Now, the deal is not inside the menu, or on some insert inside the menu, it’s only mentioned on a blackboard or posterboard on the sidewalk in front of the restaurant. It’s a good idea to take a good look at the blackboard out front to make sure you know what’s included in your “dinner special.” Some of the restaurants even serve a soothing Indian spice tea at the end.
What to do: They show you to a table and give you a menu…now, PUT the menu down, don’t even bother opening it (yet). Kindly tell the waiter that you would like the “lunch (or dinner) special” and he will show you on the menu which appetizers and main courses are part of the special. These are the only two things you need to actually choose, everything else comes automatically when you utter the magic words “I’ll have the dinner (or lunch) special.” The only thing I’ve noticed lately is that not all places on curry row are serving the small dessert automatically at the end, you sometimes have to ask. Certainly not a deal breaker, just something to be aware of. It’s even possible that some places have pulled the one scoop of mango ice cream.
The Winners: Well, I have my favorite dishes, and that’s pretty much up to individual tastes, but in general I’ve found that the chicken, lamb, and vegetable dishes are better quality than the beef, which is not exactly surprising given that Hindus don’t eat beef (the cow is sacred). If you haven’t had a lot of experience with Indian food, you can get off to a nice start (for the main course) with chicken tikka masala, a flavor packed, borderline sweet sauce that hits the “yummy meter” pretty hard. Other solid choices would be chicken or lamb curry, or if your down with some serious spice, vindaloo curry. The vegetable Samosa is a good appetizer if you’re unsure. The banana pakora is also a fun appetizer that has more dessert qualities than appetizer.
The Places: So yes, I have my favorite places on Curry Row. Sonar Gaow at 328 E 6th Street wins the prize. It’s been at the same location, with the same owner since 1989. In 1994 the lunch special was $2.95, and is currently $6.95. Dinner special is currently $8.95. Mind blowing prices both then and now. Other solid favorites are Milon at 93 1st Ave (upstairs, just south of 6th Street), and Spice Cove at 326 E 6th Street. Service is more miss than hit in this ‘hood. Keep your expectations low and it’s not a problem. The exception is Sonar Gaow, where the owner darts around the dining room sporting a massive and unrelenting smile as if serving yummy and inexpensive Indian food was an olympic sport. Sonar Gaow and Milon are BYOB, and no corking fee, so that’ll save you some bucks on your drinks. Just stop into the deli on the corner of 2nd Ave and 6th street and pick up a 22oz bottle of Taj Mahal Beer for $3.75 and you’re good to go. And yes, there are better Indian Restaurants in the city; that have better service…and the silverware matches…and you don’t have to go to the corner deli to order a beer…but, you’ll probably pay at least twice as much, and won’t get to sit under a sea of chili pepper lights in one of the coolest, funkiest neighborhoods in New York City.
You’re ready to hit E 6th Street right now, right?? You can taste that flavor packed curry goodness as you dip your naan bread in the remaining sauce, followed by a refreshing ice cold Taj Beer…meet ya on Curry Row…