Mars Attacks #3
We were a little short on time so I ran the first and second pitch together without too much rope drag and with only one double length runner. Didn't seem to make it any more dangerous and made for one hell of a first pitch! John Farrell Phoenix, AZ. Regarding the rappel; I don't think you can hit the midway anchors with one 60m rope, two ropes are required.
We did a single line rappel and the center marking for our 60m rope was about 15'-ish above the anchors. A 70m will be VERY close. The second rappel is right around ' from those midway anchors. Like mentioned below, the midway anchors are hard to spot until you're almost on them. You'll see the anchors for a climb, Big Corner way on the left. First time I was going down it, I was heading to those griping about how far out of plumb they were and pretty much ran right on top of the midway anchors. The 3rd pitch great! I must admit, the beginning of P2 and bulge crux on P3 of Streaker Spire seemed harder than anything on this route.
A fun climb but everything is there as far as features go, you just have to know how to use them.
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Seriously, I've done some slab climbing and that 4th pitch through the well-protected slab section seemed quite a bit harder than 5. And I second a two rope rappel. We were on a 70m rope and it was a testy three-rappel descent. I found the approach pretty straightforward. I've always thought of the approach as straight forward and moderate; minutes depending on your hiking speed. I thought the approach was awesome. Beats the hell out of these S. Ryan Myers Tempe, Arizona. Great varied climbing throughout May 15, Jon Ruland Tucson, AZ.
I believe the first pitch was once 5. For that reason, I would call it 5. The second pitch has one bulge move that requires some hunting and a long reach to get a bomber hand hold to secure a 5. Some may not have the wingspan to make this connection, bumping the difficulty to 5. Pitch 3 has one bulge that is a bit tough, near the top, 5. I give it a PG due to the potential of pendulum and getting stranded on the 2nd pitch. Ascenders and planning ahead will prevent a crisis, because it is a long way down at the midpoint of the traverse--my guess is at least ft.
If you left the two fixed ropes on the rappel, I was the one that removed them, and left them coiled near the base. If you were planning to solo it and rap, I guess you're going to have to down climb. Thanks Steve Pulver - those are my ropes. I was rapping in the dark and forgot that I had tied a knot in the end of both ropes so my partner didn't rap off the ends on the first rap, but I forgot to untie the one knot before I pulled the ropes - so the knot jammed at the top bolts and I had to unite the ropes and go single rope to the ground, leaving up both.
I'll try to get there this Saturday thanks again Oct 19, Jeff Strauss Boulder, CO. Can you rappel off of the anchors after pitch 2 if needed? Jeff, yes you can rap at the end of pitch 2. I have friends that did exactly that after the 2nd on the traverse took a nasty fall when a hold broke.
I do not know if 2 ropes are needed; my guess would that they used 2 since they had them. Make sure you hike the Fin trailhead located on the right side of the road obviously just before a three car pull-out on the left about. The Sedona guidebook shows the Devil's Bridge trail to be comparable and wrapping around to the base of Big Corner.
First Pitch was maybe 5. Now it's a geko 5. I went left into the small seam after the third bolt at the white band of rock and climbed up to the limestone band where you can place a 1 cam and traverse right to the anchors seemed runout 5. Second pitch was epically outstanding!!
Fourth pitch, couldn't do. It was getting dark. Try getting to the top of the fourth pitch to rap! Rapping from the third was a rope eating machine and turned into a mini epic. Second and third pitch were worth going back for!! I'll add a few notes: This is a well cairned flip-flop trail that brings you in to the far left west side of the formation. Pay attention to your left. Sunday, March 13, - Partner left my Yellow 2 Cam on pitch 3.
The party of 2 behind us one guy from MN, the other guy lives in Tucson cleaned it. Please contact me at , I will meet you in Tucson to pick up. Challenging and runout slab on pitch one and a little on pitch three. Be wary if you are a 5. Rock quality was pretty good throughout a bit sandy on the traverse and the position is great. I thought the slabs were acurate at about 5. They are both pretty dang low angle and are just insecure with bolts every 4 ft. Dropped a brand new ATC Guide from the top, still feeling that loss!
Has anyone climbed to the true summit past the forth pitch anchors? Traverse is pretty fun. This is my favorite pitch i've climbed so far. David Harding Albuquerque, NM. Please be super careful starting off the bolted belay going into the 4th pitch. Head right a few feet for the dihedral instead of the friction straight up, which has a soon-to-come-off giant flake of loose rock someone probably needs to pry this off when nobody is below. The growing crack indicates this will come off very soon!
At the midway rappel anchors if you are double rope rappelling the bolt on the right is close to becoming a spinner, still usable but maybe will be a problem in not too distant future.
Maybe there is a bolt setting savvy climber out there who is planning to climb Mars Attacks soon and could fix it?? I didn't see what all the fuss was about on the first pitch, pretty easy slab climbing with a couple difficult moves that are well protected. I definitely felt like the 2nd pitch was the crux-- exposure is excellent, and it's definitely somewhere you wouldn't want to fall on!
Pulling around the bulge adds in a ton of excitement. Pitch 3 is fun an varied, leading to an easy 4th pitch with a kind of sketchy runout to the anchors. Watch out for the anchors on rappel, too, you won't be able to see them until you're on top of them. Great intro to climbing down in Sedona, but make sure you have some multipitch experience under your belt first. You can still drive up the dirt road to the trail, you just want a high clearance vehicle - 4WD can't hurt we had a rented standard jeep SUV.
Alternately use the new trail head on Dry Creek road and walk in about a mile. The climber's trail behind about 0. It is a VERY well cairned trail that skirts the approach cliffs to the left and then cuts right to the climb. Just make sure to save a 2 and 3 for the crux bulge of P3. I brought 4 and didn't need it. Raps were very straightforward.
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From the top anchor, move to the rap anchor lookers right. Two double rope raps get you down. I was aiming for the anchor in the Big Corner, and then stumbled upon the actual rap anchor about 30' right of it. There is absolutely nothing PG about this route. The first bolt is high off the ground, but super easy climbing. TarzanR6 Las Vegas Nevada. We rapped I'm the dark last night and stranded two ropes on the second anchors rap stations?
Samsonite, we grabbed your ropes from the route on Wednesday the 23rd and brought them up to Flagstaff. They'll be waiting for you at Babbitt's Backcountry to pick up anytime. Ask somebody at the desk for them, they will be in the back. If anybody asks you about it tell them to ask Joel or Sarah about them.
This is sedona 5. Micah Kurtz Denver, Co. Ive only been able to climb the first two pitches so far, how does the last slab compare with the first? Dj telle no tella Da truth. Big corner p1 anchors alive and well. Look down and climber's left- they're the shiny anchors for 3rd rap. Think 70 would suck. That block above p3 belay moved inches when I stepped on it. Don't step on it and don't put a cam in there! Keep your rope from behind it by placing first piece high, and running it long. I realize there are already a TON of comments and various bits of info scattered throughout them, but here are a few things I did not get out of them that would have been helpful.
I DO NOT recommend rapping the route to get back to terra firma, but instead do take the actual rappel route.
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This is just-in-case information that may be useful to some. Every pitch is fun. I think the runout to the first bolt on pitch one warrants a PG13, its not too hard but slabby and a little tenuous. I want to second comments about the huge block right where you stand to belay at the top of P Suzanne Wilson 1 Placentia, California. What a great day and great route. Felt the quality of rock was much better on Mars Attacks.
Rock Climb Mars Attacks, Sedona Area
We climbed with a 70 meter rope. Not a problem but as previous commenters pointed out, there is little rope to spare about 6' unstretched rope on the first rap. As for the slab on pitch 1, we climb a lot of slab in SoCal, so 5. What a beautiful climb. One thing about the route description. The third pitch seemed harder than 5. Jeff Oslik Tucson, AZ. They're too short, and I find myself always wanting it to develop further.
Great nonetheless and maybe down the line there'll be a two-parter. Mar 17, Joseph Gagnon rated it really liked it Shelves: I have a new rule for myself. Based on these experiences, and those of Kirk and his crew on the Enterprise with Tribbles, I can categorically say I shall never buy a space pet. First of all, I am starting to think how arrogant it is to perceive ownership over any living creature. Were it a different world, I'd let her wander free Wong is a biiiiiitch.
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Comic Book Review – Mars Attacks: Occupation #3
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