Mary Roses 1001 New Country Garden Hints
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Nurseries such as Bonsai Northwest , a specialty nursery in South Seattle, often offer classes on bonsai care. There is a very large evergreen clematis starting to devour my detached garage. How far back can I cut this and when should I prune it back? It's one of the first early spring bloomers with white flowers, possibly armandii? But I am uncertain I need help since I don't want to butcher it and lose it, but it needs a big haircut! Clematis armandii does have the reputation for taking over the world.
While this type of clematis can be pruned in late winter, it flowers on the previous year's wood, so pruning at that time may remove buds and prevent flowering that spring. Step 1 - remove any dead, dying, damaged, or deranged shoots. Step 2 - they suggest that no real pruning is necessary but you can cut it back to control its growth. But you do NOT want to cut it all the way back into old dark, woody growth. Prune directly above a pair of strong side shoots. Step 3 - you will need to keep after it each year to avoid a build up of tangled growth.
Fine Gardening has an article by Lee Reich on pruning clematis here. Some friends of mine just bought an old house with a huge rhododendron up against the house. It is at least 8 feet high and probably 10 feet wide. I did not dig around and there may be multiple shrubs growing next to each other.
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What are the chances of moving the rhody successfully? Should it be cut way back before hand? Any particular time of year for moving it? Fortunately, rhododendrons are very likely to succeed in being transplanted. Most experts recommend fall as the best time to transplant. Spring or late winter is second best. The real challenge is getting a large enough rootball. A five-to-six foot plant requires a rootball of about 3 feet in diameter.
Step 1- dig a inches deep trench around the rootball. Step 2 - under cut the rootball to sever the roots from the underlying soil. The most important roots are the small feeder roots, not the big old ones. You can use a steel cable with a tractor or you can use a shovel and digging iron and a lot of hard work. The rootball will probably be about 8 - 12 inches deep and 3 feet in diameter. Use the plywood to move the plant to its new location. A tarp works, too, if you can get it underneath the rootball. Step 4 - dig a new hole 4 feet in diameter and deep enough so that the rootball is 1 inch higher than the depth of the hole.
Slightly above grade Step 5 - water well and mulch around the perimeter of the plant BUT keep the mulch at least 2 inch away from the trunk of the plant. Newly transplanted plants need some tender care and especially need to be watered regularly, but not over watered. There were no recommendations to cut the foliage back. But it is always ok to prune out dead, dying, diseased or deranged stems. This also means you can prune out twiggy growth. This information comes from Success with Rhododendrons and Azaleas by H.
Aleuria , Fungi and mushrooms. I have several beautiful orange fungi growing in my two year old garden. They appear mostly between stepping stones full sun which have a deep underlay of gravel and sand, and also in a nearby bed which is semi-shady. Is this an indicator of an extreme soil condition that I should remedy? Where can I learn more? Most likely, this mushroom is Aleuria aurantia, orange peel fungus or golden fairy cup. This species is widespread and common, often growing along roads or paths.
It fruits from late fall to early spring. It doesn't seem to be a problem for gardens I would enjoy it as an added bit of fall color when it pops up in your garden. Here is a link to a website in California with a nice picture and some information. Native plants--Washington , Natural landscaping , Native plant gardening. I'm looking for a good publication on plant communities for my area, Whatcom County in northwest Washington. We want to encourage plant communities that will do well here, and have about 5 acres to work with.
Can you make a suggestion, please? If you are interested in plants native to Washington, I recommend these two books: The Washington Native Plant Society is also a good resource. If you are interested in plants that will grow well in your area, but are not necessarily native to Washington State, please check out the Miller Library's booklist about gardening in the Pacific Northwest. Shade-tolerant plants , Epimedium.
The resources I consulted say that most Epimedium species prefer part shade, and most are evergreen. Some will tolerate a partly sunny site as long as the soil does not dry out. Epimedium perralderianum has bronze leaves that turn green and last throughout the year. Epimedium x rubrum prefers shade, so if your site is partly sunny, this might not be the ideal choice. Collectors Nursery in Battleground, WA, also carries several varieties. One gardening website, Paghat's Garden, has especially good information.
The site developer recommends in particular the following varieties: Epimedium x versicolor 'Sulphureum', or Yellow Epimedium - for its evergreen foliage Epimedium grandiflorum 'Lilafee' - for quite striking lavender flowers and evergreen foliage. Richie Steffen, curator of the Elisabeth C. Insect pests--Control , Wildlife pests , Moles. I live in Seattle and have, for the first time this fall, noticed dirt mounds on my property. They are loamy, with no apparent holes, and are about three to five inches high. I wouldn't call them conical.
There are no mole tunnels, and, as far as I can see, no bugs. The mounds are bigger than the little fine-grain mounds I have noticed in years past with small black ants crawling in them. Is there someone I can ask about what is causing these mounds, and if it is something to be concerned about? Could it be ants or mice? From your description of the dirt mounds, it sounds as though the critter in your yard may be either a mole or a gopher.
The easiest way to tell the difference is by the type of mound you have. Here is information on moles and pocket gophers from Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife's Living with Wildlife website. A gopher mound fans out from a hole near one edge of the mound. This hole remains plugged while the gopher is on the runway system.
The gopher mound is relatively flat compared to the mole mound. Gopher mounds vary from 1 to 3 feet in diameter They are not regularly found in a line as are mole mounds. The mole mound is somewhat conical and not much over a foot in diameter. The hole is not evident when you look at the mound. Push the soil aside and you will find it under the center of the mound.
Each mound is connected with the other in a line by the moles' runway system. According to the article quoted above, moles are more likely to be found in gardens in Western Washington than are gophers. We have the journal Balls and Burlaps in the Miller Library. The article discusses the problems and benefits of moles, as well as control methods.
Ground squirrels leave their burrows open, so if your mounds show no opening, you probably don't have squirrels. Mole mounds appear volcano-like, with signs of soil excavation. Here is a link to information on ants and their nests which you might look at to see if the images resemble the mounds of soil you are seeing.
Paulownia tomentosa , Woody plant propagation , Invasive plants. Something to consider before propagating this tree is its invasive potential. Depending on your location, increasing the population of Paulownia trees may not be wise. Department of Agriculture lists Paulownia tomentosa as an invasive species.
Nevertheless, directions for propagation are available. Peter Thompson's book, Creative Propagation 2nd edition, Timber Press, , states that Paulownia is best propagated by seed in the spring, or by semi-mature root cuttings laid horizontally just below the surface of the soil. I suggest that you think twice before propagating this tree. Insecticidal soap , Citrus limon , Aphids. My Meyer lemon has aphids all over it and has lost its leaves!
I just brought it inside for the winter. What can I do? The aphids were more than likely already there, even if not enough for you to notice, and once inside the warm er house they multiplied. Aphids do love citrus plants. The blossoms probably fell off due to the temperature change they experienced coming indoors. The following information was found on p. Fertilize monthly from midwinter to mid-autumn with high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer, containing chelated zinc, iron, and manganese.
Many of the common products sold in nurseries or garden centers contain the trace elements listed in the Sunset info above. Also, there are specific formulations for citrus available, also carried by many nurseries and garden centers. Sunset Western Garden Book continued No guarantee of flowering or fruiting indoors, though plants are still appealing. Locate no farther than 6 ft. Ideal humidity level is 50 percent.
Increase moisture by misting tree; also ring tree with pebble-filled trays of water. Water sparingly in winter I grow 2 Meyer lemons and find that they do best outside until the temperature goes down into the 20s. They are pretty hardy. The aphid problem is not a problem outside until spring. If you have a sun porch at your house, that might be a great place to put the lemon in winter. As for the aphids, Colorado State University Extension provides information on insect control using insecticidal soap. You can purchase it or make your own: Winter gardening , Irrigation. Can you tell me, what's the deal with watering in winter?
I've heard that foundation plants which don't catch the rain under the eaves must be watered even in wintertime. Someone else says that watering anything in winter subjects it to freezing. Now I'm in a quandary. I don't want my plants to freeze to death, nor do I want them to die of dehydration. So what's the answer? According to Colorado State University Extension , you do need to water if there has not been snow or rain. You should water when the temperature is above freezing and the soil is not frozen.
You should water early in the day so that the water can soak in before it gets cold overnight and freezes. Here in the Puget Sound area we do not have freezing temperatures very often so you should go ahead and water, especially those plants under the eaves. Sarcococca , Soil compaction , Soil testing , Katsura.
I have some dying Katsura trees. I created a dry stream to one side of them to redirect water they don't like wet roots. There is also landscape fabric the gray kind rain can get through and another inch of bark to stop a horsetail problem that creeps in every year. I am wondering if the the soil around the tree roots has become compacted by rains and is prohibiting the trees from getting oxygen through their roots.
The yellow is not in leaf veins like an iron deficiency usually looks; it is almost as if the plant is getting its chlorophyll drained from inside. No bugs present to my knowledge either. I would like to know both what I might do about the soil and about the trees. Some solutions to the problem may be to take some dead branches or stems to a Master Gardener clinic and ask them to help you identify what could be happening.
You may also want to check that the compost is not closer than 4 inches from the trunk of the trees. If it is, scrape it away. For further evaluation of the soil, take a sample from around the tree and send it to a lab for analysis. Our website has a Soil Testing Information section that includes a list of labs that do soil test analysis.
Check the area for drainage by digging a hole and filling it with water or let the rain do it and then see how long it takes to drain away. Perhaps you have a layer of hardpan clay underneath the trees that is blocking the drainage in winter and preventing the water from getting to the roots in summer. An Illustrated Encyclopedia by Michael A. The author notes that the tree requires ample moisture in the early years of establishment. Grant and Carol L. Grant, Katsura trees prefer deep soils and adequate summer moisture. There is a Katsura planted in the Arboretum on the edge of a pond in soil that is permanently wet and it is doing just fine.
Rosa , Planting time , Planting. The Seattle Rose Society suggests planting in March. The roses should be stored in a cool dark place if they cannot be planted right away. Other recommendations include soaking the roots before planting hours , and trimming off damaged or diseased roots. Try to maintain canes per plant, and prune back to buds per cane.
Dig a hole wide and deep enough to accommodate the roots. Make a cone-shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole to support the plant. Do not tamp the soil. When the water drains, add more soil and repeat the water fill process until you reach the original soil surface ground level. Plant varieties , Fagus. And from Paghat , the website of a Seattle area gardener: Sciadopitys verticillata , Conifers--Propagation. Seeds will grow into the form inherited from the parent trees; cuttings vary. On page of his book, Thompson says that the cuttings can be taken from almost any part of the plant, but he recommends using cuttings from the leader shoot in order to get a symmetrical tree with an upright leader.
Here is an excerpt: Umbrella-pine is not easy to grow and is extremely slow-growing when propagated from seed Halladin It has a tendency to form several leaders. Umbrella-pine can also be propagated by layers or by cuttings of half-ripened wood in summer Bailey A nursery in Oregon propagates solely by cuttings because of faster results; Halladin describes the technique in detail. Plant care , Zamioculcas , Palms. Zamioculcas is in the plant family Araceae, and its common name is the Aroid palm. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book , this tropical African perennial which resembles a cycad or a palm will grow slowly to feet high by feet wide.
Grown outdoors, it prefers partial to full shade, but indoors you should provide bright filtered light. It should be placed on a tray of moistened pebbles, and misted occasionally. During active growth, keep the soil evenly moist, and give it balanced fertilizer once a month. During the fall and winter months, do not fertilize, and only water when the top inch of soil becomes dry.
In summer, the plant may be moved outside to a shady spot. All parts of this plant are poisonous. Native plants--Washington , Calocedrus , Quercus. Is incense cedar native to Washington state? And is the Garry oak native to Kitsap County, Washington? Although incense cedar, Calocedrus decurrens, grows in Washington State, it is not native. The Washington Native Plant Society does not include Garry oak, Quercus garryana, on their list of plants native to Kitsap County, but this tree will grow there.
Petroselinum , Annuals and biennials , Herbs. The Sunset Western Garden Book says that parsley Petroselinum species is a biennial grown as an annual. University of Arkansas Extension provides additional information on growing parsley, including the Italian variety, which is Petroselinum neapolitanum, and curly leaf parsley, Petroselinum crispum. What is the right proportion of cut flowers to create a nice arrangement in a vase? Can you give me some other suggestions about flower arranging? This Brooklyn Botanic Garden article , provides some helpful tips on different aspects of flower arrangement.
The Miller Library also has many books about flower arranging, two of which I've listed below: Hummingbirds , Gardening to attract birds. According to the Hummingbird Society, hummingbirds primarily eat nectar from flowers. They also eat small insects and spiders as sources of protein.
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For more information on their needs, see the website of the Hummingbird Society. The City of Bellingham has a helpful guide to attracting hummingbirds which includes a list of plants which are nectar sources. Rainyside Gardeners also has a list of nectar plants for hummingbirds in the Pacific Northwest. Allen follow link "for more information" at the end of the article is also a good starting point. Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife also has a thorough guide on their website.
The Miller Library has many books about creating a hummingbird garden, including a book published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden that provides lists and descriptions of plants that attract hummingbirds, arranged by geographic region Hummingbird Gardens , , edited by Stephen W. The book includes a chapter on education, including correspondence courses. Three community colleges in the Puget Sound area offer horticulture degrees, and they might know something about correspondence programs. More colleges and universities are offering online courses now.
Here are two examples: Are there any gardening magazines with practical information that is specific to the Pacific Northwest? There are relatively few mainstream magazines that only discuss PNW gardening issues. Here are two which are published in British Columbia that you might try: Feel free to come into the Miller Library and browse our periodicals collection, which includes the newsletters and magazines listed above.
The Miller Library website has many links to online resources, many of which are Pacific Northwest-specific. For example, you can find local organizations and plant societies, as well as websites specific to gardening in our region. Look at the Resources page on our website for booklists and recommended links.
I've been trying to contact someone about growing cascading mums in the Pacific NW. I'm wondering if this region is appropriate to start a new hobby for myself. Is there a group or individual that you could refer me to? This link provides contact information for the WA chapter. In my research about cascading chrysanthemums, I learned that the major species used is Chrysanthemum x morifolium , also known as Florists' Chrysanthemum. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book , this type of chrysanthemum will grow in Sunset zones ; Seattle is zone 5. Goats , Blackberries , Weed control--Pacific Northwest.
I am wondering about an environmentally sensitive way to get rid of blackberries. I understand that mowing them consistently for 4 years works, but unfortunately this is not an option because of the terrain. If an herbicide is our only option, can you recommend one that has minimal impact? The area is quite large - a mile long and 20 feet wide. It includes manual removal, shading, grazing, biological controls, and last-resort herbicide information.
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We cannot recommend any specific herbicides, as we are not licensed pesticide handlers. The Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides has information on nonchemical blackberry control. For additional information, phone the Master Gardener's DialExtension King County at or , ext.
However, the solutions given in this tape may apply to smaller areas, rather than the larger stand you mentioned. An interesting idea that some people are trying locally is the use of goats. There is at least one company on Vashon Island which offers this service as well. Another P-I article mentions Rent-a-Ruminant. This document from Sound Native Plants contains contact information for several such services. I have two raised garden beds 8 x 12 feet in my back yard.
Recently I read somewhere that having a cover crop during our wet winter months would help decrease the leaching of nutrients and would also help bind nitrogen in the soil. Three suggested cover crops were crimson clover, Australian field peas did they mean Austrian winter peas? What would you suggest? Are these good recommendations? Which might be the best? Today and Tomorrow R. Hairy vetch, Vicia villosa, and Austrian winter pea, Pisum arvense. Crimson clover Trifolium incarnatum is almost as efficient at supplying nitrogen to the soil. Additional information about growing cover crops in the Pacific Northwest can be found on Ed Hume's website.
Senna , Cassia , Rubus , Bible plants. I am interested in this plant because my church group is just finishing up our study of the Book of Exodus. And I thought this plant might make a really nice and symbolic gift. I am beginning to understand that this plant may be rare, or possibly known by another name? The problem with English common names for plants of the Bible is that you are at several removes from knowing which plant the original Hebrew text describes.
There are some sources which state that "burning bush" refers to Rubus sanctus, but it is more likely that it refers to Senna alexandrina.
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The Hebrew word in Exodus is sneh, which is the same as the Arabic word for the Senna plant. Plants of the Bible by Michael Zohary Cambridge University Press, says that "the plant in question, specifically named 'sneh,' might well have been a real plant in the local flora. As there is no hint in the text that the sneh was a thorny bush, and there are no plants in Sinai or anywhere else that are not consumed when burnt, sneh may be identified linguistically only. There is no native Rubus in Sinai, Egypt, or southern Israel, and the bramble in the monastery garden at Santa Caterina is a cultivated specimen, planted by the monks "to strengthen the belief that the 'burning bush' has grown there since the revelation, so completely is sneh equated with brambles in the minds of scholars and Bible lovers.
While Senna alexandrina may be a bit difficult to obtain, there are other species of Senna more widely available. However, if you wish to grow the Rubus you saw also referred to as Rubus ulmifolius ssp. It is not easy to obtain except as seeds, and it prefers a moist environment. Taxus brevifolia , Poisonous plants. Taxus brevifolia , Pacific or Western yew, is native here. The Sunset Western Garden Book , p. Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast by Pojar and Mackinnon Lone Pine, says that "Western yew seeds are poisonous and humans should avoid the fleshy 'berries,' although a wide variety of birds consume them and disperse the seeds.
The foliage is poisonous to horses and cattle. The Plants for a Future database has more information at this link. I do know that some indoor plants do better with water that is not fluoridated. There are conflicting opinions on the effects of fluoride on human health and the environment including plants. According to this article entitled Water fluoridation and the environment by Howard Pollick in the International Journal of Occupational Health reprinted by the Centers for Disease Control , the fluoride level in residential water as opposed to industrial runoff seldom rises above a level of concern for plants.
For an alternate viewpoint, see the Fluoride Action Network's website. Established hardy geraniums do not need much more than an application of compost in spring. Most commerical fertilizers will provide too much nitrogen, causing weak growth that flops over or needs staking. Plant longevity , Osmanthus. What is the lifespan of Osmanthus? A client's year-old, 12 ft. According to SelecTree , a database produced by the Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute, most Osmanthus species have a longevity of 50 up to years.
A plant's lifespan varies, and urban trees and shrubs tend to be subjected to more interventions in the form of pruning, pollution, damage from construction, and so on. Also, the hedge has undoubtedly become woody with age. The closest list I could find to meet your needs is one of evergreen shrubs that will grow in shade:. Japanese aucuba - Aucuba japonica vars. English laurel - Prunus laurocerasus 'Mount Vernon' Japanese skimmia - Skimmia japonica evergreen huckleberry - Vaccinium ovatum nannyberry - Viburnum lentago. Prunus lusitanica , Growth. My customer says his Portuguese laurel which is now a 5 foot tree won't be growing any bigger.
It is in the shade, but don't these get 15 feet in height? SelecTree , the website of the Urban Forest Ecosystems Institute, says that Portugal Laurel Prunus lusitanica will do well in sun to partial shade, and may grow up to 35 feet tall, at a rate of two feet a year. The Sunset Western Garden Book says that a multi-trunked tree can get as large as 30 feet high and 30 feet wide. Perhaps your customer is expressing wishful thinking, and aspires to grow a shrub rather than a tree.
Some people do grow it as a hedge, and clip it frequently to control its size. Perennials--Care and maintenance , Iris. Do I leave my Siberian iris alone through the winter, then cut them back in the spring when new growth starts to show, as I've done in the past, or do I cut them back now? My neighbor has had hers cut back for months now and insists her way is best According to the book The Siberian Iris , by Currier McEwen, , you should "allow leaves to remain on the plants as long as they are green and adding energy to the plant through photosynthesis.
When they turn brown in the fall, cut them off as low as possible and burn them. We are currently making plans to construct a Plant Science Laboratory at our school, a community college in Seattle. The plans are to have a two greenhouses, gutter connected and providing about 1, square feet of space. It will be constructed on a 10, square feet of property near the school. I am wondering if there are any publications that discuss the management of an educational greenhouse at the CUH library. Also, are there any newsletters, websites or other materials you are able to recommend?
The bulk of our books on greenhouses focus on either commercial growing or home hobbyist. We have some back issues of the journal GM Pro, also known as Greenhouse Management and Production, which has a commercial focus. I searched the Garden Literature Index of journals and didn't find anything too promising on actual management. I recommend you try talking with some of your colleagues at the local colleges that have horticulture programs:.
Lake Washington Institute of Technology. And here is a link to a college in Ontario, Canada - Niagara College - that is doing something similar to what you describe. In his book Trees of Seattle , local author Arthur Lee Jacobson lists a small number of loquats growing in Seattle, all of them young trees. On his website , he at least mentions the potential for fruit if the winter flowers are not killed by frost. The book From Tree to Table: In warmer areas--zone 9 and these are some of the recommended varieties: The website of California Rare Fruit Growers provides general information on growing loquat.
Pteridium aquilinum , Perennials--Care and maintenance , Ferns. A friend trimmed the bracken to the ground. Will the bracken grow back next spring? This led to other questions. Does bracken lose only its leaves in the winter or does the entire plant die off? Does it spread through its roots or spores? Any information you have would be appreciated.
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Bracken is deciduous, that is, the fronds die to the ground in winter and then regrow from the rhizomes in the spring. If your friend cut her bracken down to the ground late in the year there would be no problem. Even if it was earlier in the year, the bracken would probably survive. According to the fern books I read, people have tried mowing to remove their bracken with no success. The books also warn that bracken is very invasive and not recommended for small gardens. It spreads by underground rhizomes, maybe by spores as well, and can take over a large space in a very short time.
It might be a good idea to take a look at some pictures either in books or online just enter the name in Google and select Images above the search box to make sure this is what your friend has. Any deciduous fern and even some evergreen ferns can be cut to the ground in fall, but generally it is better to wait until the new fronds appear in spring to cut out the old fronds of evergreen ferns. I am looking for a native, drought-tolerant grass for a small garden plot in Seattle.
Can you suggest a grass that is feet tall and at most 2 feet wide. Festuca idahoensis , Idaho fescue Bromus carinatus and Bromus marginatus , brome grasses Elymus glaucus , wild rye grass Melica species, onion grasses Calamagrostis nutkaensis , Pacific reedgrass. Each of these grasses grow in very distinct shapes--I recommend that you look at them before choosing which species to plant.
Fescues are popular grasses for gardens because of their fine blades and pretty seed heads. Additionally, the Elymus and Bromus will grow much more quickly than the other species. You can perform searches on each of these species at the USDA Plants Database by typing the plant name into the Plants Name search box-- this database will give you additional information about the species and some pictures.
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The Washington Native Plant Society website has a list of native plant vendors. Calathea , House plants. The webpage of Plant of the Week have information about Calathea zebrina zebra plant, native to Brazil: Plants reach 3 feet in containers. Leaves emerge from basal rosettes and may reach 2 feet long by 1 foot wide. Amazon Music Stream millions of songs. Amazon Advertising Find, attract, and engage customers. Amazon Drive Cloud storage from Amazon. Alexa Actionable Analytics for the Web. AmazonGlobal Ship Orders Internationally.
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