Drink More Wine Cross Stitch Pattern
The fabric and cotton floss are probably fine, although bright red floss can sometimes bleed see below. Be sure to check things like embellishments, unusual threads, and so on. Color bleeding when washing. Color 'bleeding' or 'running' is when the dye moves off of where it should be, and attaches itself onto another area. It is usually red dye bleeding onto light colored fabric. Fortunately, it does not happen often, but you have to watch for it. The cause is usually excess dye that was not completely washed out of the threads in the dying process.
This is why it is recommended that you prewash red threads before you stitch, but in practice very few people do this.
Drink More Wine Cross Stitch Pattern
What you do want to do is watch carefully for any signs of bleeding when you are hand washing. If you see any signs of bleeding, stop washing, and start rinsing under running cold water right away. Rinse for several minutes and then let it soak in cold water while you decide how to proceed. Do not let the stain dry.
Before you do anything, make sure that what you see is really color bleeding. Often it is not bleeding, it is just the thread on the back of the fabric. When the fabric is wet, it becomes more transparent and any loose threads on the back can make it look like the colors have run. The longer a stain remains, the harder it is to remove; so if you do have colors bleeding, it is better to decide how you want to proceed soon.
Still, take a few minutes to think about what you want to do. You have two choices. First, is there any way to cover the area that the the red dye bled into? This sounds funny, but give it some thought. Maybe it was a red flower that ran; maybe all you need to do is stitch some more leaves and cover it up. Maybe add a charm or embellishment.
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If you can do it, covering up the stain is the best choice. If this isn't an option, you need to try washing the red out. Use only cold water for the wash and rinse. Tap water is fine unless you have very hard water, then you will want to use distilled water. Make sure the sink and any containers you will use are clean. Pre-rinse the piece under cold, running water. Place in a soapy cold water and gently wash. Avoid soaps that have additives such as fragrances, softeners, etc.
Use only a small amount of detergent. If needed, rinse and wash a second time. Rinse three times in cold water. As you work, check carefully for any sign of color bleeding, 'hoop marks' or other stains. Remove the piece from the final rinse. Place the cross stitch on a dry bath towel, and roll up the towel with the cross stitch still on the towel. Unroll the towel and repeat on a dry section of the towel or another towel. Gently pressing on the rolled up towel will remove all the water you need to remove. Lay the cross stitch face up on a dry section of the towel. If necessary, let the piece air dry until it is just damp but not dripping wet.
Once again, check for any stains or marks. Once you iron the piece, it will be even more difficult to remove any stains. Use an iron set to a low or medium temperature and lightly press the BACK of the cross stitch. If you have beads, special threads, etc.
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Keep the iron constantly moving. If you have not used that iron in a while, practice on a scrap piece of cross stitch fabric. Make sure the steam setting is 'off', and the iron is not 'spitting' steam. For the temperature setting, keep in mind the types of materials you used in the cross stitch; if there is any question, use a lower temperature. The cross stitch will still be slightly damp. Lay it face up on the towel and allow to air dry.
Below is a reprint of an article from the Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute. It has some very good information on removing tough stains from needlework and textiles.
This information is for spot removal of stains, not general cleaning. Stains disfigure clothes and home furnishings, and it is desirable to remove them, especially if the stains stiffen or corrode the fabric beneath them. However, the removal of stains can be hazardous to the fabric - and to the person attempting to get the stain off.
To be successful, care and caution must be exercised. Old Stains There is often the effect of time upon a stain: Drycleaners who are trained in stain removal prefer to work on fresh stains which have not had time to "set" or react with the fabric, dyes, finish, or atmosphere. Generally, a stain less than two months old can be treated; a stain one-day-old is easier than one that is two-weeks-old, etc.
Perhaps the most distressing example of ageing is the soda or cola beverage stain which does not appear to stain but left untreated turns brown because the sugar syrup caramelizes oxidizes with time or heat.
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Type of Stain There are two fundamental types of stains: Coffee or tea exemplify water-based stains. Paint, lipstick, adhesive stains are classified as solvent-based stains, so are latex type paints or Elmer's glue, which contain water initially, and harden to a different, non-aqueous compound. Water-based stains, including most food stains, are acidic and will require an acid mixture to remove them. Oil type stains will need non-aqueous or "dry" chemicals hence the term "dry-cleaning" in most instances.
Many stains, like sebum "ring around the collar" , and smoke damage, are complex mixtures of oily-type components with water-based salts, acids or bases and particulate matter carbon, dirt. Inks, especially ball-point and felt-tip pens, contain complex mixtures, along with pigments colored particles and dyes water soluble, fiber absorbed colorants.
Perspiration may be acidic or basic depending on the person. The residue is complicated by the composition of the deodorant or perfume used. Pet stains are also variable and complex. Vomit mixes bile from the digestive process with the foodstuffs themselves. Cat urine is not comparable to human urea, as it contains a sulfur molecule.
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Each is broken down and removed by enzymatic actions specific to the molecular structures. Other types of stains that require special chemical reagents are: Condition of the Fabric Water swells natural fibers but not polyester or acrylic, so a water-based stain will go deeper into a natural fiber unless a special hydrophobic water repellent finish has been recently applied. Polyester or acrylic, in contrast, will repel water-based stains but absorb oily ones unless a special finish has been fixed on those fibers.
Consequently, the success of a stain removal method depends upon the fiber type and finish. Some dyes and finishes are set on the fibers in the same manner the stain is: The chemical compounds that give color to food can be very similar - even identical - to those colors found in shirts, blouses, or oriental carpets. Older fabrics loose their resistance to tearing, to stretching, and to rubbing. Removing a fresh stain from an old textile may require too much stress on the fabric and leave a rip where there was only discoloration before. Recycle Sampler and Recycle. Both are cute ways to remind us how we can do our part to save the planet for our future generations.
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