Machine Knitting Trims and Edges - Single Bed

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There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later. Kindle Edition Verified Purchase. What machine knitter needs to be told how to cast on? Not many, I think! Then the book says to choose a pattern of your choice. For increasing stitches in work rather than decreasing them, this illustrates the direction in which the carriages need to be moving.

This repeat is planned for each square representing both a single stitch and single row. Since the width of the knit piece needs to be programmed when using Ayab, this approach may be used for anything from ruffles to sideways skirts. Additional information on designing is offered in previous post, used as is. With a bit more planning and even using a garter bar, this is executable as well http: Motif on left, mirrored as it would be by Ayab on right. With narrow pieces of knit, pay extra attention to beeps and flashes.

In routine lace patterning the KC is set for plain knit, does not preselect needles, advance the mylar, punchcard, or other electronic patterning. When the decrease is made on the bottom curve, the needle from which the stitch was taken is put back out of work. When an increase is made, a stitch is moved to work on left, and the last stitch on that side is transferred onto it.

As knitting continues, that now empty needle location will create an eyelet. I decided to wing it for the first swatches. This illustrates the same knit shape. Arrows indicate the movement of the lace carriage on left, knit carriage on right. Red squares now represent transfers to right, green ones transfers to left. A second transfer to the right is included in the pattern close to the left edge of the trim to create eyelets next to the decreases, matching those eyelets created by stitches moving out in the increase segment of the chart. Now reducing it all to black and white squares or pixels for first preselection from right hand side using an electronic.

This repeat is not suitable for use in a punchcard machine even though it is 24 stitches wide. Electronics advance a design row with each pass of the carriage when cam buttons are pushed in and with both carriages set to needle select. Punchcard machines in those circumstances do not advance when the alternate carriage is brought into work from the opposite side. This charted repeat is usable as is on an unaltered , with the first preselection row from right to left. LC operates from the left, KC from the right.

Ayab mirrors lace repeats, so either mirror the repeat of the original design, or choose action mirror in the software prior to knitting. This is a screen grab of the repeat used for my initial swatch test. As the KC now knits the second row, it preselects needles for the first row of transfers, rests on the right LC transfers to right as it travels to left, preselects the next row of transfers. End needle selection is off on both carriages. As LC travels to left, because of no end needle selection, the first needle on the right is not selected.

An option is to manually pull that needle out to insure it knits. I decided I actually preferred the chain created by those single stitches knitting only every other row, but was not happy with the elongated stitches on alternate rows edge stitches on the increase side.

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I decided I actually preferred the chain created by those single stitches knitting only every other row. I had a serious yarn tangle on the right about halfway up the swatch, with some of the evidence visible in the approximate center of the swatch photo. My fiber is now a crisp cotton, unmarked weight, tension 8, and it is much easier to observe areas that may still be a problem to me as the designer.

Category: Trims and edgings

Ideally I would prefer the lines created by the transfers marked in cyan to match the quality of those immediately below or to the ascending part of the diamond on their opposite side, that would require changes in the transfers sequences and space between knit rows. The LC non selected stitches on the straight creating an every other row slipped stitch are still something I like. The difference on the edge stitches in the ascending angle are happening because with each transfer out, there is a single thickness of yarn on the new edge stitch and moving the stitch over a needles space elongates it.

Longer loops btw are also created when single increases are made by bringing needles into work on the carriage side prior to knitting a row across all needles. There are 2 rows that have no edge transfers programmed intentionally in the center before reversing direction, so that area has no resulting edge eyelet. The last shot at adjusting the repeat, with improvement in those cyan marked areas. Plain knit rows may be added between each repeat, the edge of the knit will be different than in the remaining trim on each side. Still trying to work with a pattern that knits for 2 rows, transfers for 2, a chart from Stitch World: All the transfers in the central diamond actually are happening in the same direction.

If the repeat was programmed in the usual manner, beginning with LC on the left, those transfers on the first design row and in the whole of the center diamond shape would all be to the left.

knitting tuck trim right onto the project on the knitting machine

I can live with them all being to the right, and would be interested in more eyelets at the edge of the trim. It was there in the earlier sample marked with arrows as well, but not as noticeable where the edge was created with the addition of single eyelets on increase and decrease rows. In theory the same repeat could be used flipped horizontally for operating the lace carriage from the right. I chose to reverse positions for transfers, moving left transfers upon row, and red down one row.

With lace carriage operating from the left this is my new repeat, with edge shaping added for trim edge KC is set to slip after the first preselection row, first set of transfers is selected on its second pass to the right. The first transfers with the LC are made to the right, the second set to the left. If knitting the repeat using Ayab remember the above is mirrored by the software, so choose action mirror prior to configuring. I knit a swatch using the thinner yarn again.

The difference in increasing angle can be seen here as well, the pattern is short, so the outer curve of the trim reflects that. This would be my test repeat for knitting the same trim in ayab with the LC operating from the right. The software would mirror it, no action needed. The last row is shifted to the bottom to allow for the knit carriage finding a home on the left. First row knit would preselect 2 needles only, with KC then set to slip in both directions, the next two rows should knit, preselecting the first row of transfers to be made by the LC operating from the right.

I am unable to test the repeat. I have had intermittent problems with patterning in the sofware from the time I installed the kit. In multiple efforts and restarts I am now getting no selection at all or wrong selection with LC operating from right, while rows advance in the software and beeps continue.

Bonnie Triola (Author of Machine Knitting Trims and Edges - Single Bed)

I have knit lace with the LC on the right before, but not with the KC selecting needles as well. Possible solutions and causes to be determined. This chart shows the first rows of the published punchcard. Brother setting recommendations made for a similar transfer pattern in an edging published by them, are given and repeat is pictured at end of my post. LC moves to right, no needles selected Row 2: LC moves to left, preselects next row of transfers Row 3: LC moves to right, transfers preselected needles to right red dots , selects needles if any for next pass to left Row 4: LC travels to and transfers to left green dots , preselects for first row to be knit by KC In this particular pattern the direction of the arrows match the direction of the transfers with movements of LC operating from left Row 5: KC travels back to right, in the second shaped knit row, preselects for the next transfers to be made by the LC Row 7: LC travels to and transfers to right, preselects for next row of transfers Row 8: LC travels to left, transferring to left if any needles have been preselected on the previous pass, and the process continues.

The numbers on the punchcard chart do not reflect actual row numbers in knitting because when row 4, 10, etc is reached, on the next pass a blank row in the card , the card does not advance and the previous selection is repeated. For each carriage to make an even number of passes to travel to and from its original position, the total length of the repeat must be an even number of rows. Here are the 24 stitch repeats adjusted for knitting on the electronic. A for an unaltered , B indicating direction of transfers red to right, green to left. Arrows mark the problem row, and my solution to it C on the far right, along with the repeat adjusted for use with Ayab.

Last week I got an email from a Russian machine knitter named Elena Luneva, asking if I would take a look at her You Tube videos and share them here on the blog. I think they are terrific! In the first class, Principles of Knitting Terry Clot h, Elena uses a ribber comb to work a hand-manipulated, purl-side looped fabric on a single bed. My kind of fun! Thanks for sharing, Elena! The collar on the sweater I featured in my last two blogs is actually more of a turned or rolled collar. A true shapedshawlcollar requires short row shaping so I have included some generic directions in this posting.

You might just want to keep an eye on how many rows you work so the collar is neither too deep nor too skimpy. Hand knitters have an advantage in that they can fit the entire neckline onto a single circular needle and work the front bands and collar all in one piece. I have suggested that machine knitters work the collar with a center back seam — along with a caveat to make that seam either invisible or decorative….. You could also work the collar in a single piece through the beginning of the V-neck shaping and then work both front bands separately.

The method used to shape the back of this color can also be applied to other collars and trims so add it to your bag of tricks! Nancy Olson sent along this photo of herself modeling a version of the shawl collared cardigan that she knitted on her SK mid-gauge. She used DAK to help chart the sweater and I think it looks great! Its fairly easy to add beads on a knitting machine and although you can do it on any gauge machine, beading really looks best on standard gauge fabrics because the beads are in better proportion to the stitches.

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That said, the example in my video was worked on a mid-gauge machine 6. The ones I sell have a fairly long shaft and you should be able to stack on beads, depending on their size. Just be aware that these tiny latches are very fragile and need to be treated carefully. I ship them with a protective cap and you should replace it whenever you store the tool. You simply insert the hook of the tool into the stitch on the needle — or one row down — then release the stitch from its needle. Close the latch of the tool and slide a bead over the latch and onto the stitch, tugging gently to pull enough of the stitch through the bead to replace it on the needle.

I usually work with the stitch one row down for larger beads so that they do not distort the fabric. The carriage will knit more smoothly if you bring the needles to holding position before knitting the next row. You can combine beading with tuck stitch patterning or with cables or other hand manipulated stitches. For the example at left, I manually enlarged a single stitch in the middle of each cable so that the beads sat right on the surface of the fabric.

This hand sewn bind off is my method of choice for binding off 1 x 1 ribbing. It exactly matches the circular cast on edge, holds its shape and never binds. Hand knitters often struggle with this method for binding off because they usually work it directly off their hand knitting needles. In fact, even when I hand knit a ribbed neckband, I transfer the stitches from the hand needles to the machine and scrap off as I will describe below. It makes all the difference.

First of all, the stitches need to present as two separate rows of stitches that you can think of as upper and lower rows. This is the factor that makes it easier to see what you are doing and enables you to distinguish which stitch to work and how. The work is scrapped off in a way that creates those two visual rows for you. This bind off is worked the same for latched up ribbing as it is for double bed ribs. End with the carriage on the right. Transfer all the ribber stitches to the main bed, pulling each needle out to Holding Position HP as you deposit the stitches.

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 3 times the width of the knitting. The stitch size should be set for stockinette. You can use ravel cord for the first two rows or, for practice, just knit with waste yarn that contrasts well with the rib. The needles in WP should have slipped; the needles in HP should have knitted. For the example in the video, I knitted a second row with ravel cord and then switched to waste yarn. Set the carriage to knit in both directions.



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Knit rows of waste, cut the yarn and then drop the work from the machine. I usually press the waste yarn not the rib to assure that it lies flat and is less likely to ravel.

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Please refer to the video included in this post for the visuals to accompany these directions. The numbers below also appear in the video as I work each step. Thread the main yarn tail through a blunt yarn needle and hold the work as shown in the video, beginning on the right edge. You should be able to clearly distinguish between an upper and a lower row of stitches held by the pink ravel cord.