Bitter Oranges: Not Knowing Where and How to Look

There is a Lemon and Pink Grapefruit recipe in the book.

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5. Don't hate marmalade because it's bitter. It doesn't have to be.
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I have three pages of illustrations for it because the technique is quite involved, but it gives great results. The grapefruits get blanched multiple times in boiling water to rinse out that extra bitterness that they have. Then they get scooped so you end up with thick peel. Then it gets chopped and incorporated into the marmalade.

It is multiple steps but the results are wonderful. The lemon and pink grapefruit marmalade is actually one of our best sellers. You have a recipe for Pear Jam with Rosemary and Pine. Pears go wonderfully with herbs. I had this pinecone-bud syrup …. I always have it in the cupboard. I know, it's one of those things you carry with you when you travel. I came across it and I thought, "I have to use this.

I decided it would go well with pear. It's just the perfect accent to pears. It also adds a little warm color to the jam. I'm thinking of how those pine buds smell when you lightly pinch them, when they have sap and they're sticky. That incredible smell, if that were in jam You need a fruit where that is going to come through enough, so something gentle like pears is perfect. Each week, The Splendid Table brings you stories that expand your world view, inspire you to try something new, and show how food brings us together.

We rely on you to do this. You have the power to keep us cooking, sharing these stories, and helping you in the kitchen. Your gift only takes a few minutes and has a lasting impact on The Splendid Table. Don't hate marmalade because it's bitter. It doesn't have to be. More from The Splendid Table.

From stocking stuffer to stovetop: What's behind our global appetite and ubiquitous love for Ferrero Rocher? Share on Facebook Share on Twitter Pin it! Lemon and Pink Grapefruit Marmalade. Pear Jam with Rosemary and Pine. Support The Splendid Table. Then came the soaking. But was it with or without the sugar?

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And was it really necessary? Patience is something I often lack in the kitchen. Without my mum or a recipe reminding me that there was a very good reason for the soaking and waiting, I just continued bulldozing. The jars were put in the cupboard. The jars got pushed to the very back of the cupboard. She did however change her mind about Glynn, or Glynn changed his mind about her. Either way, I had to give up the flat. The day I left, the jars left sticky rings in the cupboard. I then left the jars and another dose of shame, in a skip next to the railway line. For years I had absolutely no desire to make marmalade.

Then a few years back, I was tempted again, and encouraged by Vincenzo, a Sicilian for whom citrus is ordinary and essential, and who loves bitter orange marmalade as much as my dad.

Seville orange marmalade

This time I did have a recipe, but from a sugar cautious friend, which meant the marmalade was more of a compote. It was fine, nice even and we ate most of it. This was fine too and it was poured valiantly over everything, especially lemon cake, which was good and made it all feel worth while. Marmalade crossed my mind. One picture in particular struck me, a big pan of bright orange chopped peel, in it suspended the muslin bag of pith and seeds, a practical and beautiful picture. Back in Rome I asked my fruit and veg guys to get me some bitter oranges, but there was always a good reason why they forgot.

Then I went up to the orange garden and saw the oranges. We passed by the garden again few days later on our way back from somewhere, Vincenzo waiting in the stick- gear panda in the carpark, me with a big canvas bag. As I said, they were windfalls. I would like to expand this instruction to: Once you have read twice, turn the radio up, finish your cup of tea and begin.

Go and make marmalade should be written at the bottom of doctors prescriptions as a cure of sorts: Memory stirring English style marmalade, made with Roman oranges, for a Sicilian: Adapted from a recipe by Sarah Randell from her beautiful book Marmalade: Put the radio on. Make a cup of tea and sit at the table and read through the recipe so you know exactly what lies ahead. Cut the oranges in half, flicking obvious pips into the gauze. Squeeze the oranges and then put the juice into a large bowl or the pan you are going to use. Put and flesh or pips from the squeezer into the gauze.

Cut the orange halves into quarters — scraping any membrane away and putting it into the gauze — then cut the peel into uniform shreds — thin or chunky depending on your preference. Put the peel into the pan with the juice. Gather the gauze into a money bag pouch and tie with string leaving a long end that will tie the gauze to the pan handle during cooking.

Navel Orange

Cover the pan with cling film and leave in a cool place overnight. The next day if you have used a bowl, tip everything into a pan. Tie the gauze pouch to the handle with the string so it hangs just submerged in the liquid. Bring everything to a simmer over a low — medium heat, then simmer until the pieces of orange is really soft — they should squash easily between two fingers — this should take about an hour and a half.

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Once the peel is soft, remove the pouch, pressing it gently against the side of the pan first to extract as much juice as possible. Put the pouch into a bowl to cool for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, squeeze the lemon juice into the pan, then add the sugar. Once the pouch is coolish, squeeze the last of the pectin rich juice from it and put it in the pan — you may need rubber gloves.

You can now discard the pouch, it has done its job. Put a two saucers in the freezer. Keep stirring the pan to help dissolve the sugar — this is an important stage, it will take about 15 mins. Once the sugar is dissolved bring the marmalade to a rolling boil and boil for 20 — 25 minutes or until it has reached the setting point for which you should use the wrinkle test. This means putting a blob of marmalade on a cold saucer, putting the saucer back in the freezer for a minute and then dragging your finger through the blob.

When the marmalade is ready, take the pan from the heat and let it sit for 15 minutes which will help the peel disperse more evenly. Use a measuring jug, ladle or funnel to transfer the marmalade into the warm jars. Seal the jars immediately and leave the to cool. Give the jars a final wipe before labeling.



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