Everest and Conquest in the Himalaya: Science and Courage on the World’s Highest Mountain
The valley is now a national park and the village a starting point for scaling Mount Everest -- also known as Sagarmatha and Chomolungma -- whose exact height has been recorded as 8, or 8, meters by separate geological agencies. The word "sherpa" has also become a job description on a formal trekking crew, but it is not necessarily filled by ethnic Sherpas.
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The Sherpa job is to set up camp, manage the porters, ensure that loads are evenly distributed and be responsible for the trekking group's safety. Sherpas also need to liaise with the clients, support them along the track and then run ahead to make sure the tea is on the boil when clients arrive at camp. Often thought of as self-sacrificing, tenacious best friends of the foreign mountaineer, successful Sherpa will be all too happy to boast that they are doing well enough to employ non-Sherpa ethnicities to schlep loads for them and their clients.
But only to a base camp. The Sherpas who continue on to higher camps and to the summit are highly specialized and usually of Sherpa ethnicity. The higher altitude jobs are more dangerous, requiring more experienced Sherpas and earning higher pay. Scientists discover why Sherpas are superhuman climbers. Scientific tests suggest Sherpas are genetically adapted to high altitudes. An American study in concluded that Sherpas had undergone genetic adaptations after living in one of the world's highest regions for thousand of years.
This gave them an advantage when in high altitudes with low oxygen. Adaptations include unique hemoglobin-binding enzymes, doubled nitric oxide production, hearts that can utilize glucose and lungs with an increased efficiency in low oxygen conditions. Since then, more studies have been carried out on the genetic basis for this adaptation. Following this logic, we could hypothesize that if we and our children and our children's children all lived at high altitudes all our lives, somewhere down the line our descendants would become Sherpas.
Unless, you're built like Reinhold Messner who made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and who also climbed all 14 "eight-thousanders" -- peaks more than 8, meters above sea level.
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A Sherpa collects refuse on Everest. One third of people who have died on Everest have been Sherpas. These genetically adapted guardian angels of Mount Everest climbers sound as if they are pretty much invulnerable to the elements.
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Few people mention Sherpas falling to their death in crevasses or being left to die on a mountain whilst in the service of vainglorious clients. One third of the people who have died while trying to conquer Mount Everest were Sherpas. There are grim stories from the early days of climbing about Sherpas who were left on the mountain to fend for themselves.
Most famously, the desertion by the Nazi climbing team on Nangba Parbart in when a storm hit and the Sherpas themselves became baggage the team wasn't prepared to carry. The story was recounted in "Tigers of the Snow" by Jonathan Neale. Sherpas are also not a guarantee against your own death. A fascinating read that has links all aspects of climbing that many previous books lack. Dr Richard Sale is a theoretical physicist, a mountaineer and an expert on the history and ecology of the Artic.
Everest & conquest in the Himalaya
He has travelled extensively in the Arctic, Antarctica and the Himalayas, and is a prolific author. Products Authors Categories Series. Latest Releases Coming Soon Blog. A History of Women's Lives. Ancestors in the Armed Forces. Battle of the Bulge. Great War Chemical Attacks. Home Front in WWI.
Everest Book Report: Everest & Conquest in the Himalaya, by Sale & Rodway
Italy in the Great War. The Fall of Singapore. The Great War at Sea. Out of Print eBooks. All Aviation Books Available in the following formats: All Maritime Books Available in the following formats: All Modern Warfare Books Available in the following formats: Bes Magazine This history of mountaineering in the Himalaya recounts how advances in understanding of high-altitude physiology and in the development of equipment have allowed the frontiers of altitude to be pushed back from the humble beginnings in the late 's to where we are today.
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