Spill the Wine
This is so they can lock it up. There are quite a few buildings without doors and walls here. Simon and Lukas get to play soccer and we all played volleyball here. The snorkeling and diving here was some of the best. The village has set aside half the cove as a no fishing park reserve. Something about a dinghy and kids. Everywhere I go there seems I get a dinghy full of kids. And the sand that sticks to them accumulates… In the dinghy! As soon as I approach they all jump out. Lukas and Simon left a few soccer balls behind for this crew. I asked the chief if it would be good to do an eye clinic here and give away reading glasses.
He liked the idea. Chief gets the word out. We set up in the local first aid center. Here is one of my earlier patients sporting her new spex watching the show. We saw quite a few folks then cleanup. There is more music that night. The eye team sleeps well. The next day Alex, Sarah and Kat go for a dive in the marine park we are anchored in.
It was impressive by snorkel. And just as impressive by scuba. Some of the best so far. Thank you Nguna island. Our next is Lamen Bay on Epi island. We leave at midnight. The anchor it was tricky to recover. Many rocks below and those rocks became rather attached to my anchor chain. A little push and pull gets it loose. The boys get the Scopolamine patches. Night passage goes smoothly. The next day we have dolphins joining Spill the Wine. Cavorting at the bow for 20 minutes. The kids dig it! We encounter a fellow fishing out of a dugout canoe in the bay. And we meet Masing. He and his wife Ruth became our guides for our visit.
These people really live in paradise, and they know it. Sunset finds them together on the beach. And there are always little kids looking to help you with water. Masing tells me in a bad dry season this well continues to deliver when others fail. Apparently Australians came and drilled this quite deep into the earth. Fed by rain in the mountains I suppose. The odd bit is this pump is less than 50 meters from the beach.
We take advantage and get ready to wash clothes in buckets. This offends one of the village residents. They lend us a proper washtub. They also invite us to use their clothes line. Top photo above is the fuel depot. Note that in the background of the photo there are brush piles on fire. Bottom photo is a close up of the fire. Maybe 15 meters from the fuel depot. Struck me as unusual. Dig the fire over his right shoulder. This is the opened beanpod. There is a fleshy covering over each bean.
You can eat that part and spit out the bean. Like you might eat pomegranite. I tried the bean raw and would not recommend eating this. Really needs roasted to become chocolate as we know it. Snorkeling was great here. Lots of big Green turtles. Even a Dugong think manatee. Beef au Egg was tasty. We arrive Port Vila Vanuatu at 10am. We can see where we are going. Radio in to the marina. They have plenty of mooring bouys. Their work boat leads us to one and we are tied. Kat is flying out tomorrow and will be returning with her siblings in 4 days. Minors age 10 and We need some govt paper from Vanuatu to be sure her arrival at the Vanuatu airport is smooth.
So I am off to the Govt offices. I still have not paid for our port fees from our check in out at Port Resolution either. On the other end of town. What did you expect!? We find out way to the immigration office and get things moving on the permission letter for Kat to arrive in Vanuatu with her siblings. The official helping us tells us to come back on Monday to pay. Anything you need done requires 3 visits. And last to pick up your document. Distributed about town to keep it interesting. The market is in the middle of all this. And a proper market it is! Kat and Bas head out for some clubbing.
They have a blast and find that they are the only white people in the disco. Saturday Kat departed for Australia. All paperwork in hand or in progress. Its complicated as she is going to be traveling with minors, even if they are her brothers. I get my bicycle out of its storage sack and put back together for a trip to get a few boat supplies. It is a brilliant day to go for a bike ride in Port Vila. I rode out to the end of town to visit a marine supply guy that helped us on the phone with our fuel pump questions.
We end up watching some old video from the Tea Clipper races on YouTube. He had a friend visiting in the shop that does solar installs for the out islands. They tell me where I can buy a courtesy flag for Vanuatu. Strangely enough it is not easy to find one. The shop guy gives me a bonus small flag.
I fix it to my handlebars. I went shopping for something appropriate to toast on the Big Green Egg. I find a place to cut us some thick steaks. Kat crossed the Pacific on a boat called La Pita. As I mentioned last post we shared some of the crossing from Tanna with them. And they are here in the Port Vila anchorage. Kat is gone to Australia to collect her siblings.
I had time the next day, so I decided it was time for a haircut. I think the last was somewhere in NZ and its been awhile. The harbor here is pretty interesting. There are a number of derelict boats wasting away on the shoreline. The remains of some cyclone no doubt. Too bad about the photo exposure. The boats were backlit at low tide. Sunday night the Soccer World Cup happens. I had no idea how seriously they take Soccer. Or maybe they just take a party seriously. And the party starts at 11pm.
And is still rolling until just after dawn. People hooting and hollering. The thrill of Victory. I did not get in the middle of that as it started so late. On Monday it is time to go back to pay the immigration fees. I ride through town. Bike is way faster than a car because of the usual heavy traffic. The road turns one way against me. And it is hot. As long as I am moving its comfortable. But when I stop it is Hot and Humid. I park my bike and enter the govt office. Same helpful official as last week.
She sorts me out quickly. The sweat pours off my body in the enclosed space. I feel like a levee is about to Iet a torrent of sweat loose. I feel a drop roll down my spine and another accumulating on my nose. This is at the other end of town. I find my way there and the same guy that helped me check in at Port Resolution on Tanna is taking care of me again.
Get the port fees paid, cruising permit in hand and off we go. As I fly through town I realize. I am the only white guy on a bike in this town. Hell I am the only guy on a bike in this town. And there are not many white guys either. No idea why bicycles are not common here. They seem a perfect fit. I get back to the marina and it is time for another shower before heading to the boat. Maybe that is why bicycles are not more popular….
I fill a couple of my Jerry jugs with water to top up the tanks. Not a great idea to run the watermaker in a harbor. Filters last longer on the open sea. Although I would have to comment that the visibility in this harbor is amazing. The first harbor I would consider running a watermaker in if I had to. But the water on shore is good and free so no need to consume the battery power.
The tide must flush this waterway thoroughly to make the water so clear. I picked up a two stroke gas Mercury in Fiji. I grew weary of the unpredictable availability of Propane. The new one works. And it is smelly. There is extra oil in the fuel just now because that is what the manufacturer recommended for the first tank as part of the running in process. Next tank should be less smelly. Performance was weak until the running in period was done.
Nobody wants to steal little motors. At first the new motor would not plane out the dinghy. Which seemed really weird to me. The good news us after the run in period it planes out the dinghy just fine. And the odor improved. Kat returns to Vanuatu on July 19th with her siblings, Simon and Lukas, in hand. Along with plenty of associated gear. And Spill The Wine wept. Bas departs for shore accommodations and I deliver our new crew to their Vanuatu home. We have a couple more days of chores and provisioning to take care of. Trick is how to keep two young weasels entertained?
Or do I assault the job list? We plan some outings to local attractions.
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We visit a swimming hole. Another fabulous Blue Lagoon Number Unknown.
But what kid does not love a rope swing? The pool was big enough to swallow a herd of cruise ship passengers. But the good news is there was no cruise ship in port today.
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Kat wants to go to the boat supply store to shop. We have life jackets for the boys but she is looking for a particular sort for them. Store has a few but they are nothing like we seek. Reality is nobody wears life jackets in the south pacific. So no one sells them either. The only ones they have are the orange ones for insurance purposes. I take a bicycle trip up the hill to find a French butcher. They have good meat and French wine with corks!!
Not that it matters but NZ and AUS wines are predominant in most of the south pacific and they use those screw caps. Corks are just novel. And I witnessed A Miracle! There was another bicycle in Port Vila! The guy was even wearing a helmet. Definitely not from around here. There are no motorcycles either. We decide to take a very short cruise over to a neighbor bay. We get anchored and relax and a big green turtle floats by. The attraction here is a restaurant that does a fire show.
Think Cirque du Soleil but a bit more minor league. Turns out to be a great attraction. And the photo does not do justice. Hundreds of people show up to watch. And after the show the audience is welcome to come play with their fire tools. Adults and kids both. What could go wrong? It is time to go back to Port Vila for last provisioning. Beyond here no grocery stores be! At least for awhile. But imported is imported. I stop in to the local LP Gas depot and they fill me up presto. And all they have is Propane….
How nice they have propane here, but there are plenty stops yet to go and my expectation is that butane, not propane, will still be the only fuel in many of them. We dose the boys with half patches of Scopalamine to ward off sea sickness. We are late on this, we should have done it the night before. Exit the harbor and start sailing North. And the boys turn green. But they had their reasons. Apart from late meds the seas as we turn North were quite lumpy and random. Perfect to make one sea sick. And Kat did some research. Turns out your seasickness potential peaks at age We hit their sweet spot.
Whales came along to cheer Lukas and Simon up. Kat spotted them on the depth sounder. The depth was erratic and she was sure it was a whale. We are heading for Nguna island. A small island associated with Efata island. On our way we are passing a small bay on the west side of Lelepe island.
Ok maybe that is enough sailing for our little crew-lings. This is my mistake. This was not our intended destination so our normal preplanning is yet to be done. And we are about to arrive. And the crew-lings are getting excited, running around, asking questions. Kat is looking at the google earth images to see about a reef. I note visually that we are coming up on a reef. Kat is back on deck and it is time to reverse course and drop sails.
We get the motor running and we gather our wits. Still time to make a plan. The satellite images show a pass about the middle of the reef that would be best approached from just south of west. And we start looking for it. Visibility is pretty good but the pass does not reveal itself. Another cruiser is snorkeling in the reef zone and indicates where we should enter. So we try it. Very skinny water under our keel but it will do. Anchoring in 12 feet of water with nice sand bottom.
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Good holding as the sun goes down. The google images we used quite a bit and we found to be a powerful tool in poorly charted areas especially. Kat figured out how to integrate them with a charting program called Open CPN. They are much more useful than the charting in many cases. And used together with charting you have a very useful tool. On the other hand, sometimes clouds happen and the images are not so clean as this one is. The next day we note beachy palapas onshore. And there are tourists on the beach! Turns out the village on the south end of the island brings tourist day trippers out in skiffs to Lelepa island for various activities and this is their lunch spot.
After they leave a woman comes out in a kayak to share the leftover snacks with us. Those little black dots are bats. They are small but small ones are more scary, right? Actually they were flying all around us during our minor spelunking. At this anchorage we meet Alex and Sarah. They are English people touring on a boat named Bob. Sarah shared some awesome photos with us. Like the above Batscape. At the end of our Batcave shore hike Simon stubbed his toe on a root.
Peeled that sucker right off. Both boys ended up with trouble of this sort. Even Kat got a splinter. Trick in life is to know when to wear something like shoes. And playing soccer shoeless with a raw toe is a good way to keep it from healing. But I suppose we all have things to learn. Our postponed visit to Nguna Island is next. I got up early and started to pack the dinghy. Bail out the water. These things make noise. So not long and my crew is rousted. After all those departure preparations it is time for my last bath in this bay followed by a swimstep shower. No photo available… Then coffee.
We weigh anchor at and exit the bay. We are bound for Port Vila miles to the NW. Bas makes eggs served with baguettes, butter, and honey. The wind fills in and we are making 7 kts on a broad reach. It is a good day. Followed by a good night. Another boat LaPita exits just behind us. She is a 75 ft ketch. Kat crossed from the Panama canal to French Polynesia on this boat last spring so she is well acquainted with these folks. Neither could we leave them behind. It was fun to travel in company. She is a beautiful boat. Classic photo with someone nearly naked at the bow.
I get to skin the husk from the coconut on the swimstep. Curry wants coconut meat and water. Will this be fish curry? Winds were kind to us. Good speed on a beam reach. But not more wind than we could easily handle. When we visited Denarau marine complex for supplies we met another Katharina. She helped us acquire Kava for the Lao tour.
Paroles "Spill the Wine" - The Isley Brothers
She invited us to dinner at her house when we returned. We met her dad and her children. And we had some kava with the Kava dealer! Her dad runs a kava shop in the market. She served us lobster curry with all the fixings and of course, coconuts! Thank you Katharina for sharing your family with us.
We adjusted our crew list to include Bas a couple days ago. This entails a paperwork shuffle with the Immigration authority. I scheduled a 10am final signing out for Friday the 6th of July. The officials came at noon. So we had plenty of time for lunch! Nancy and I and Bas and Kat. All my Fiji dollars are spent.
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They are not so useful out of the Fiji. I sent Vanuatu customs the required advance notice today and lo, this time they didst respond. I tried a few days ago and their web site was Offline. We said our sad goodbyes to Nancy. She is off to Seattle to chase necessary evil dirt details. And devises all sorts of ways to keep us tethered in boxes. There is a price to pay to finally achieve your freedom. Nancy and I are close to that goal. Some of our favorite staff come by to seranade us with the Fijian goodbye song.
And we are off. Days at sea give me time to reflect. I need more crew photos!! So many priceless friends have sailed on Spill The Wine. Thank you all for sharing. I have learned so much on the path. Some things that are good to know. Some things that I should have known already. If I keep at it, some day I might be smart.
But back on course to Vanuatu. We sail kts through the afternoon and night. Mine was the first watch until then Kat takes over. Stars were brilliant for the first hours of the evening. The moon came up late and was its own show. With sunrise I am greeted by a thousand diamonds on the deck. Fresh sea salt people! Bas is learning fast but there is a lot to learn. Great fun to have him on! He is great at identifying where he can be helpful. And clever enough to know when he might be in the way.
We ran the motor to charge the batteries. General Comment I always thought it was "Dig that girl. War is one of the best quirky songwriting bands in the world. General Comment o and by the way. I wonder if its metaphorical for 'putting yourself OUT There, and taking a risk General Comment This song is great. General Comment Perhaps he's describing a trip? And that he just was surrounded by women, like his ultimate dream: And I agree with shockdelica: Because wine stains are permanent.
Or maybe they just wanted a kick ass song, and the lyrics aren't what's important, just the amazing music itself Log in now to add this track to your mixtape! This was a 60's favorite, believe me I was there! Absolutely a must have for anyone building a s collection. Would definitely buy again. Would definitely buy again! See all 31 reviews. Customers who bought this item also bought.
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