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But some soft water plants might object. However I do have a product that contains both formalin and malachite green. Can I dip her in this combination of chemicals? How long should I leave her? Too, it depends on the recommended ppm, type of fish, problem being remedied, etc. Some say a few seconds, and others say about 20 to 30 minutes.

Of course, I know to remove any fish that shows signs of unexpected stress. You need to be careful with loaches and catfish though as they can be more sensitive. We are in agreement regarding here. I no longer purchase guppies from my LFS. Too, I have purchased some guppies directly from breeders who subsequently have been crossed off my list for various reasons.

The mycobacteria article is a jewel. Thank you for sharing the link. It seems, though, that in the end those of us who cannot obtain most of the treatments on the list and have no veterinarian who treats fish nearby must simply do the best we can. It was good to learn about the efficacy of immersion treatments.

I do feed my fish medicated fish foods when needed. However the bags of food lose their efficacy after about 6 months. Nor can they be frozen. Better to sell you a new batch of medicated food! No particular reason medications should be harmed by freezing, and many chemicals are kept that way precisely to avoid decay, not least of all food! As I wrote to Bob Fenner, the internet is so hit or miss regarding specifics, not to mention there is too much mixed information and I don't want to bug you all too much. She is the one with the post-pregnancy fungus problem.

She seemed very hardy after arrival from Michigan. So my hope is that she'll pull through and level out with good care. I'm feeding baby brine shrimp to the fry. I'm witnessing first hand how tough guppy fry are now that two females have dropped their fry. Thank you for being so supportive! I did use a formalin product while trying to save my only Half Black Yellow Leopard male. I learned my lesson, unfortunately with his death as a result.

I learned that he was much too weak to be able to handle such a harsh treatment. Other than that it might have been best to euthanize him scene he was so far gone As I said, I am learning to know the signs for the problems I have had to deal with to date. I really rate these two products and find them effective and good value.

Perhaps eBay or similar would help? I do know about transferring live media, and have done this in the past. I did not with the new breeding tanks because I had to re-cycle my main tank after using meds. Now that it's fully cycled again I am going to make a sponge stack to place in the corner in order to have live media at the ready in the future.

The daily fry tank maintenance has become very straightforward. Guppy fry have great instincts; they quickly learned to get out of the way of the airline tubesyphon. Regarding live plants inthe breeding tanks: It seems thatevery time I add new plants to my main tank my fish battle some kind ofproblem. The cories and Otos never have problems, only the guppies. I suppose this points to your discussion about how poorly they are bred in most cases. Nevertheless, those are fine suggestions, and I thank you, Neale! Never fear, my liquid test kits are my best friends, as they should be for all of us.

Neale, I thank you for your response. I hope my formatting comes through without glitches. Bob had trouble with my emails. I hope this time it will be smooth sailing. You are all very patient and generous. Thank you for being here for us! I'm really frustrated about the formatting and not responding to you correctly. Please accept my apology. Just since starting the salt, Maracyn, and Maracyn 2, my female guppy is perking up.

The slight vent swelling is gone and the ever-so-slight pinkness is gone. I appreciate the warning about toxicity when using formalin and malachite green. Since she's doing much better I'll forgo using it. I agree with you about Melafix and Pimafix. Thanks too for being patient with my emails. I wish you and the rest of the fine folks at Wet Web Media a wonderful upcoming holiday season, if you participate. It's my very first 20 gallon high planted, pressurized CO2 ecosystem I've taken on this responsibility with gusto having researched every single aspect of properly keeping a balanced tank and its inhabitants.

I love guppies, so for now even at risk with no females I'm keeping 5 male guppies, 1 female Corydoras trilineatus, and 2 Otocinclus catfish of undetermined sex. This will change in another month when I go to a larger aquarium with a more diverse community of fish. I plan to keep my current tank going to try my hand at careful guppy breeding after much research. The male guppies get along pretty well because I've arranged the plants, rocks, and Mopani wood to break up lines of sight and to offer some retreats, when necessary.

Two of the guys do posture for dominancy or territory, but there have been few incidences of chasing or tail fin nipping. The fish behave as I expected them to with only one the most gentle natured who retreats to his established territory under some Cryptocoryne plants next to a large rock if there's too much posturing going on. At first, I was worried about him, but he does defend his territory upon the rare occasions that one of the most dominant males decides to visit when he's there.

So with all males, things seem normal even though I understand that keeping all males guppies can be stressful for them. Here's some basic tank info, as I see so many other websites requiring it when asking a question: I keep the entire line of Angels Plus medicated and recovery foods for the guppies, if needed. I hope this is enough information. Long introduction aside, I was away for two months for my graduate studies and left my aquarium in the hands of my husband, with written instructions. I'm sure you can imagine what I came home to As a precaution, I've just completed the second Levamisole treatment according the instructions on loaches.

One fellah suddenly developed a clear fund filled 'blister' on his dorsal fin. I could see that it had burst by the next morning. Then, in the same place a white bump-limp-cyst has emerged that goes through the fin, being larger on one side than the other. I've been watching him and see no difference in his behavior at all. After researching to death, I can get no definitive answer to what it is.

I have some guesses, but I'm still not sure. I read your information about Lymphocystis, looked at tons of images, read forums, etc.

Now, another guppy has the beginning of tiny growths on his dorsal fin Can you help me diagnose this from the poor images I took with my cell phone? I read that if it is that, the growths can break apart and infect other fish and lay in the substrate. With what and how? What should I do about the 20 gallon aquarium?

I've attached some images. Thank you for any advice you can offer. Can't say definitively what these "blisters" are due from Please do search on WWM, take a close look, and decide for yourself the best course of action. I read many posts in WWM and did not discover anything like what my fish have. So, as a just in case measure, I'll treat them as you've prescribed. If anything significant occurs I'll report back to you all. Thank you very much for your time and expertise!

I have 2 guppies hiding together. One male and 1 female. All the other fish are fine. There is no signs of aggressive behaviour in any of the fish. How big are the Angelfish? The only water quality issue is nitrates and nitrites are both high. Water changes, don't feed in the meantime, optimise filtration until such time as nitrite is zero. Fish react poorly to environmental stress, and often appear scared.

They are, I suppose, because they can't swim away from what's "hurting" them. I do plan on getting a proper test kit soon. My plan of attack at the moment is to do daily water changes. I've never had issues like this before. This tank has been rocking just fine for 3 years. When was the last time you cleaned the filter? Might be overdue having the media rinsed, either in buckets of aquarium water or else a running tap with water the same temperature as the tank.

In the summer I would keep a couple cheap feeder minnows in the tank and keep filters running. Guy started spraying too early and nailed the pond dead on. They did just fine. A month later his new tank was ready so home they went. My tank sat full of water, heater on, filter running but no fish for a week. I then added the current fish load. Considering the size of my golds both were about 8 inches and were my pride and joys and how much waste they produced, is this spike simply due to a new cycle starting? Without a source of ammonia the bacteria go dormant.

Luckily, they grow back much quicker once you add the new fish, so cycling shouldn't take anything like the time it does for a virgin tank. Should be settled within a week, I'd guess. Of course if the filter media was removed and dried out, like you broke down the tank and had it in the basement, then yes, you're cycling from scratch, and that'll take a month or so.

Also, these 2 guppies have been strange from the get go, so is it possible that I just ended up with weak stock? Thanks for any input. I tested yesterday and both nitrates and nitrites were on the high side of "safe". Today after noticing the 2 guppies I tested and the results said nitrates and nitrites were midway through the unsafe "zone" on the strip. On that same note, I don't like to use chemicals. What you certainly want to avoid are those chemicals that are toxic to fish, such as copper and formalin.

You're wise to minimise their use as medications, and better still, avoid and use something else. But water's a chemical, and you're want to use it, and antibiotics are, used properly, no risk at all to your fish. It's fairly unreliable, and has, at best, a mild antibacterial effect.

Do understand fish have some resistance to Whitespot, and in good conditions can even acquire some degree of immunity. Like a lot of things in life, the devil's in the details, whether it's something trivial like fish tank medications or a big issue like GMO crops, blanket statements about them being good or bad can lead you into undesirable situations.

Any special diseases I should keep an eye out for? They don't look damaged or sick.

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Big water volume and robust filtration should sort things out in time. Will take your advise regarding everything. I will let you know the outcome of these guppies. I do not have air conditioning so I removed the top and angled a fan to blow across the water. I also added 2 frozen water bottles.

Indeed, 1-litre or bigger ice cream cartons are the best. Get at least two, freeze one while the other is in use, and rotate them as required. Also try lowering the waterline a few cm so that outgoing water from the filter splashes about. This helps to drive off CO2 and absorb O2. Finally, ensure water circulation is as good as possible so that oxygen is distributed around the tank. The female molly dropped 2 fry and died. The tiny little guys swam into the plants. I do not know if they survived the night with the other fish. The male guppy is gone.

I can't find him anywhere. I moved gently the caves and plants. I even checked the floor in case he jumped out. There is no sigh if him. Water testing this morning shows everything in the high end of "Good" but I think I will continue with the WC for the next couple of days. Its going to be HOT so I'm guessing that the hot water can cause spikes fast.

I now only have one guppy. Will she be OK in there with the others, or should I after the water is cleared back to healthy get a couple more? Extra females can be useful though. Nonetheless, adding any additional fish while the tank is suboptimal in some way isn't recommended. I have double the amount of females to males so that there is no fighting and to try give the females a rest.

Yesterday I noticed that one of my females abdomen's is blown up hugely. It is almost like someone has pumped her up with a bicycle pump, it is also completely see through. Difficult to pin down. This last condition is sometimes associated with protrusions from the vent. Do see my pictures of a dead female Halfbeak on this page: She is also not off her food and still seems to poop with no problem. I have been keeping a close eye on her. I also watched to see how the other Guppies are treating her in the tank and they don't seem to be picking on her or treating her any differently.

If it was not for the bloated see through body I would think she was totally normal. Any help you could give me I would be most grateful! He feels in good form, eating, swimming etc. I think it's dropsy as I have been busy and have not changed the water tank in like 6 weeks.

I also have far too many fish being trying to give them away 10 gallon tank - 9 guppies I took him away on a 2. I think one other fish may have it but his tummy is not crazy big so it may not be. Is there anything else I should do? I have some tablets for fungus and bacteria - should I use that? I have done the water changes with Epsom salts twice - how long until he goes back to normal? The bloating may be due to something incurable. I'd keep on doing what you're doing.

I will keep giving him eps salt baths - at what point in time will be safe to put him back on the main tank! Female guppy pregnant had 2 fry and now a big red lump!!! Remember my second female that was pregnant? She had her fry 3 days ago. Only one baby survived they were tiny and I think the fish ate them. She is not well though - she is at the bottom of the tank, almost not moving and she is getting redder like small blotches almost like tons of burst blood vessels she stopped going for food today.

Her insides are not out like the other one, but something is very wrong. What should I do? As always, review environmental conditions, and ideally isolate the ailing fish. Review, and act accordingly. There are no easy cures that I can think of for fish in the situation you describe. She unfortunately died yesterday. I treated her in the main tank with an anti fungus antibacterial remedy that turned the water blue. But I guess it was too late. Do I clean the original tank completely and start again? Opportunistic infections are latent in all tanks, even healthy ones, but don't do any harm unless the fish are weakened.

So provided your other fish are healthy and kept properly, there's no reason to try and eliminate ALL the bacteria in an aquarium. Maybe 2 or 3 such changes across the week. But most medicines decompose within 24 hours, so it's really not a big worry. The grunion was my phone autocorrecting "the fry" go figure Grunion are fish of course, which is what threw me. I came home with a couple of new guppies in October and they had Camallanus worms.

After trying several things I was finally able to get my fish store not the one that I bought the sick fish from to sell me some Levamisole, which took care of the worms. I figured that he had worms inside him that died and that was why he got crooked and of course died.

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Neons and Guppies require fundamentally different living conditions, so it's unlikely read: As you can see, there's little overlap between their requirements. In hard water, Neons basically die off one by one, rarely living more than a year, while Guppies are persistently disease-prone when kept in soft water. Chilling weakens Guppies, making them sickly, while overheating Neons shortens their lifespan still further. You could probably keep both if you had precisely degrees dH water, pH Could the crooked backs be related to the Camallanus worm infestation or is it probably fish TB. If it's TB do I just give up on the tank and the 20 or so fish in it?

One of my male guppies Firetail is about 6 months old. He is living in my 20L FW tank with 13 juvenile male Endler's. If that latter, far too small for Guppies. Sometimes genetic, but surprisingly often a result of poor care dietary shortcomings for example at some stage of growth. I keep the males in this 20L tank for a couple of months until they are old enough to take to the aquatic shop who sell them on. But Firetail has become a "pet" because of his deformity. So he has been living in the tank about 6 months now.

He is still eating but he is finding it difficult to swim below the surface. Today he is finding it hard to control his direction when swimming in the current from the filter. I have fed him some pea today to help if he was constipated, but he seems to be passing faeces OK. Between the cellulose of the plant matter and the chitin of the insects, there's a lot of "fibre" in their diet Protein sources like fish meat aren't a useful addition to their diet. Other tank mates are two cherry shrimp a couple of assassin snails and a small clan of FW snails about 10 remaining.

The tank is planted and has small floating plants, some hornweed and a large rock. The other fish in the tank are all behaving normally and seem to be healthy - everyone is eating and being active. Please advise on what I can do to help Firetail recover. I have read that sometimes deformed fish can develop organ problems, but I want to help Firetail recover if I can.

This morning The lump is outside her body but under her skin- the Size, shape and color like a raspberry She is getting tired. Tail dropping Please help - could she have had a prolapse? Very difficult to treat. Adding Epsom salt to the water can help, as will reviewing aquarium conditions. Ammonia and nitrite should be zero. Do read here about prolapses: I did put aquarium salt the first night when I saw her distressed. It looks like it had some eggs that did not developed and by the end of last night it got little white dots on it. Do review my comments on the Halfbeak in the link sent earlier.

I wanted to ask you about the carbon filter - I was told never to replace it or change it. Today when I lifted it up it was covered with yuk- slimy grayish yuk. I cleared it under running water and put it back in. On top of that, it only works usefully for about a week after being added to the aquarium. Unless you change carbon every week or two, it's a waste of space in your aquarium.

Replace with more biological media unless you need to specific benefits carbon provides. Contrast the freshwater situation with the marine, where carbon is very useful indeed: The fry are now about 1 inch long and they are mainly boys. Which I think were the ones that got the female adult pregnant. Do remember to keep at least 2 females per 1 male. Best to rehome surplus males as required. Or add males no females to community tank elsewhere, reserving females for the breeding tank. Adding floating plants will be useful, too, by providing shelter for the females.

Yes, I'd put this down to some sort of uterine problem. Pretty rare with livebearers, but kind of like breech births in humans, these sorts of problems do happen. Hard to say what the underlying problems are. Unless you have a burning need to breed your fish, it's often easier to keep just the one sex. I like the female Guppies to be honest, their personalities are often sweeter and they are usually that bit hardier than the males.

They're all good nowadays. So go by your budget. The premium brands such as Eheim Biomech or even Siporax do work well, have long useful lives decades, even but budget brands are pretty reasonable. For many folks, things like Fluval Bio Max is the sweet spot between price and effectiveness. But honestly, even medium-fine gravel can do the trick! If all else fails, stuffing compartments loosely with filter floss works nicely. I have medium gravel in the aquarium and will be getting some bio media today.

She seems to be pregnant gasp I can see pink eggs. I do hope she does not go through the same. I did not realized the little guys could reproduce just yet. And they are her fry so now I am worried. In the wild this is a non-issue: But in the confines of the aquarium their regular social behaviour doesn't work. Much the same as why the eat their fry. In the wild the fry instinctively go into very shallow water where no other fish go.

So adult Guppies don't need to avoid eating their babies because they wouldn't encounter them, and instead snap at any small mosquito-like morsel they come across. But in the aquarium, such morsels are likely to be their fry. She thinks fish are awesome as they can swim as soon as they are born while we humans cannot walk for months! Her words so I did let them breed a couple of times. Even something like Angelfish produce fry that take some days from hatching until they can swim, during which time the adults look after them. Indeed, Angels and other cichlids usually extend broodcare for some weeks after that even.

Other fish are planktonic for weeks or months before becoming true free swimmers. Herring and Cod would be like that, as well as most reef fish Nemo included! Fish reproduction is astonishingly diverse. A few even produce "milk" for their offspring, famously Discus, where the fry graze special mucous from the flanks of the mother and father. I'd heartily recommend getting something like a Dorling Kindersley book on fish or sharks for your daughter to peruse. Of all animals, few exhibit such extreme diversity. Don't even get me started on intrauterine cannibalism in sharks!

Terrifying, bizarre and brutally efficient. The boys died if a case of itch and the girls and 13 out of the over 70 fry did too. I was quite attached to the girl who died and the one isolated fur having survived the itch that killed almost all my fish: I will let you know how it goes with her pregnancy: One female really has me stumped and I hope you can help. Maybe a week ago I noticed her rubbing on objects and settling near the bottom of the tank. She developed a red spot on her abdomen and it became pointy until it broke through her skin. I did isolate her and it fell off of her last night leaving quite an ulcer behind.

Whatever she passed I scooped out and it broke in three pieces. I expected it to feel organic but it was stiff and sharp at one end. I can't find any literature that describes a parasite exiting this way?

Any ideas what I'm dealing with? Thanks in advance for your ideas, Angela Shaler. What emerged was very pointy. Over the last few days its worked its way through. I doubt it's a parasite as such. The ulcer is the bigger problem. While fish have amazing abilities when it comes to healing, a puncture of this sort will be a significant risk of infection.

Keep an eye on her, and ideally, medicate as per Finrot.

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It had a pale spot on its back that had not been there before when it died. What could this be? Necrosis death of skin tissue is one possibility. Opportunistic bacterial infection is another. Many other possibilities as well. I stated several times now my guppies have been dying and I have not understood why. You have suggested it could be bacterial. Well another of my guppies has died with the same symptoms. Lying at the bottom of the tank, discolored scales, bloated. Then swimming for a while normally before passing on.

Whatever it might be it strikes quickly. I think it had white stringy poop before it died. And now another of the 2 remaining guppies is sick. This one appears to have yellow slime by the gills, something hanging from her vent, and two tiny ulcers on her side. You may not be able to see the ulcers in the photo. They may just appear as 2 red or pink dots, if at all. Photo of back side of vent.

Photo of yellow by gills and ulcers the pink patch. Whatever it is that is killing the guppies appears to be effecting only them and my ghost shrimp. The neon tetras that share the tank with them seem to be doing fine. Photo of thing hanging from vent. What do you think the problem here is? But will repeat the basic point. Guppies aren't particularly healthy fish any more, and because they're farmed to a price not a quality, they're intensively reared allowing diseases to swap between specimens before they get to you.

Mycobacterial infections are common "random" deaths, usually preceded by lethargy and wasting. Tetrahymena is common similar symptoms. And this is before we even get to the old favourites like Aeromonas and Pseudomonas spp, Costia "slime disease", and all the others. Invariably, quarantining is best, probably with the use of Metronidazole and a Nitrofuran. Reviewing water chemistry and quality are crucial. Conditions that suit Neons soft, acidic won't suit Guppies hard, basic.

Nitrate is a hidden killer with all Poecilia spp, particularly Mollies but also, to some degree, Guppies. In short, without microscopic inspection by a vet, university microbiologist, even a skilled amateur with necessary equipment identifying the cause of "random deaths" is impossible, especially where the symptoms are non-specific. Would perhaps add the opinion that if you don't have quarantining facilities, store-bought Guppies aren't anything other than a crap shoot. You pays your money and you takes your chance. I don't buy them or recommend them. Not for freshwater tanks, anyway they are usually hardier in brackish conditions, presumably because at least some microbes can't survive in such, and on top of that, brackish water provides osmoregulatory support that helps weaker Guppies survive better.

One of the guppies died with no symptoms other than looking a bit pale, which is how we received him. He had a small red spot on his back which has turned into a giant red spot, but doesn't appear to be a sore, it resembles what internal bleeding would look like on a human or animal. I can't seem to find a similar case on the current forum posts.

I am wondering if the behavior of my yellow guppy is indicative of a disease or not. Yellow guppy is basically almost dead, but I'm wondering, should take any action with my 25 gallon tank? Guppies must have hard, alkaline water. They aren't at all tolerant of soft water, and acidic pH levels quickly stress them. Fancy Guppies are particularly sensitive. I have moved him to a 5 gallon tank with salt, but do not want to add salt to my 25 gallon because of the loach. Merely adding salt won't do what you want.

But you could make use of the Rift Valley Salt mix, described here: Note that it uses tiny amounts of salt, Epsom salt and baking soda -- not enough to stress your loaches or catfish. But nonetheless use judiciously, adding small amounts once per day across a week or two, raising the hardness and pH to something around degrees dH, pH That will be acceptable for the loaches and catfish as well as much more suitable to livebearers like Guppies.

Thank you for your time! Recommended ratio is 2 females at minimum per male. Much less likely to get harassed or stressed In groups of less than six you can get social problems, ranging from shyness e. This is relevant because if you have soft water which Neons need then Guppies will be more prone to problems She isn't acting any different that I can tell, but if she's sick I need to do something with her and prevent the others from getting it.

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Nonetheless, damage to the snout is commonest when fish are panicked and bump into things, or else have been engaging in some sort of fight or tussle. Because you have more male Guppies than females, and male Guppies are sex pests I'm being kind here that will attempt to mate with rape is probably more accurate any female within range, female Guppies are easily stressed and damaged. Seems a surprise given how big females are compared to the males, but as I say, the males are nothing if not persistent. My money would be on the female having been damaged or stressed this way, and it's evens odds whether the red spot is mere damage or a secondary infection in which case, treating as per Finrot would be useful if the spot isn't healing.

Strange swollen red area on guppy? I had a question about something very strange on my male fancy guppy. He has a large red sort of sore just behind his right fin picture attached Just last night I could tell that something was kind of off about the way his side looked, but later today it had gotten much more swollen and a lot redder. It can't be seen from the angle this picture was taken at, but it appears that all of the scales in that area are sticking up, like dropsy, but only in that one red area.

Because it's right around his fin, he has a lot of trouble swimming and ends up wobbling a whole lot. I have no idea what could have been caused by, and the rest of my fish are healthy three other fancy males, two female platies and one female molly I just checked the water parameters two days ago and the Nitrate is at 0, Nitrite at 0, Ammonia just under. I've looked everywhere for something about this but all I find are pictures of something similar but no information about whatever it is.

I was wondering if you guys have seen this and know what it is and what's causing it. I need help please I switched to Cephalexin took some moss out of tank just because it was getting caught in filter. Anyway the deaths stopped after 5 days off mg Cephalexin per 20 gallons. I lost at least 20 guppies. I have went 2 weeks without any symptoms I put moss back in that was in Betta tank 3 days ago Betta is fine, now I have 5 guppies showing same symptoms. My ammonia is 0 nitrates 40 nitrites 0 pH 7.

I have enclosed pictures. The first and her scales have turned white on half her body they look swelled. The second one is another one where the discoloration is starting. I have started Cephalexin and Kordon's plus again. I need help please. Then I noticed a little spot like Ich on the fin under his belly he died super fast. I started using Kordon's Ich plus then I started seeing other symptoms like discoloration it would spread fish would die. I added Furan 2 did no good. Usually when a big number of fish die within a very short space of time hours, days, a week or two then the problem is almost always environmental.

So review the aquarium. Don't mistake pH for hardness. Worry about the hardness, and the pH will take care of itself. In other words, don't add pH-up products, but do instead use mineral mixes to raise the hardness. Have a read here: Alternatively, if you're keeping the Guppies all by themselves, then keeping them in brackish conditions, SG 1. Fancy varieties of Guppies also appreciate warmth; aim for C. With all this said, farmed Guppies do suffer from some bacterial problems that are essentially untreatable. So-called "Wasting Disease" and "Guppy Plague" are names applied to these.

They're probably varieties of Mycobacteria infections. No solution, except to say that environment probably plays a role in making the diseases more deadly. Buying Guppies from local breeders is pretty much the best way to get healthy Guppies, but certainly don't buy ones from stores with sick fish visible in the tank.

Hope this helps, Neale. I kept them separate from my tanks for months. Something is wrong with them. I thought maybe it was their genetics but I have since added a female from my other tank that is now very ill. She was the fattest and plumpest most beautiful fancy female. Now she has removed herself from the herd. Her big fat belly is gone and she is full of babies that I can see. There is nothing protruding from her. No spots, growths or wounds. My water is hard. I practice regular water changes and they have a heater to keep the tank warm.

If the Guppies are kept alone, and you either don't have plants or keep salt-tolerant ones like Java ferns then you can afford to be quite liberal with salt. This won't cure everything, but it will inhibit the spread of many parasites and does seem to help farmed Guppies stay healthy. Aim for a specific gravity of around 1. She is not the first. This is how they die. They just get thin, lethargic and droopy.

Inbreeding may be a problem, but the widespread use of antibiotics on fish farms is surely a problem too. Mycobacterial infections "Wasting Disease" seem to be extremely widespread among fancy Guppies, to the degree that I've had candid conversations with retailers who consider Guppies so bad they only order them in because people buy them before they get sick -- if it was up to these retailers, they wouldn't touch 'em with a bargepole.

Certainly buying fancy Guppies from a local breeder is a better option, or failing that, pass over them in favour of a more reliable species, like Endlers or Limias. In any case, treating Mycobacterial infections is virtually impossible, but if you want to try something, then a combination of Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 could be used but it's hard to make an economic case for medicating. Isolate infected fish completely from healthy ones i. Unfortunately Mycobacteria can infect "vertically" meaning that mothers can pass to embryos, so removing youngsters after they're born doesn't achieve much.

Likely the easiest option is to humanely destroy the infected specimens immersion for minutes in a bath of 30 drops clove oil in a litre of aquarium water works well. The British Fancy Guppy Club has an informative page that may help you decide if Mycobacteriosis is what you're dealing with; see here: I have just been able to jump back into fishkeeping after moving to Mexico and being fishless for two years. The tank I'm going to get is 63 gallons and already cycled, and I'm going to fill it up with Cryptocorynes and sword plants, both of which I have previously had success with.

Is that a suitable stocking idea? So send along your revised list; further sharings. Stocking for gallon tank; guppy hlth. I guess I'll go with the angels, then. Three of the four adults seem healthy and very active; however, I haven't seen any of them eat I may just not have been paying enough attention , and one of them has some white stuff on her mouth and isn't moving around too much.

If it's fungus, what can I do? Back to the stocking for the tank. I don't know what species they were, but I thought they were adorable. They couldn't have been over three and a half inches long. Is it truly possible to keep these tiny buggers in a fully aquatic tank, if they can climb onto their platform at the surface? Or is this a bad idea for some reason? Thanks again, and sorry for the long e-mail: I think my guppy is sick. I don't think she is pregnant because I don't see the gravid spot. I have put her in a separator for the time being and would really appreciate your help. The scales on the top of her head are now white and look damaged, apart from that she looks in good health and is swimming around fine, is there anything I can do to fix the scales?

Proper, consistent water quality and nutrition.

FAQs on Freshwater Livestocking 1

They will grow back in weeks. Hi, my guppy is starving, what do I do, I think he is going to die? He seems weak and keeps resting on things.. I don' think he will last long? Read, consider the possibilities you learn about. The tank is 55 gallons and has been cycled for 6 going on 7 years 2 of the Kuhlis and the shark are about years old and the other 4 Kuhlis are younger, I also suspect 2 extra Kuhlis may be in one of my filters but anyway. There were no odd feces or anything, just gasping at the top then slow lethargic swimming then not eating.

I don't think its a good idea to add more guppies until at-least a few weeks of monitoring this one for symptoms. What do you think? Perhaps Platies would be a better choice for you. He died so I got new ones but now. Everything seemed to be fine. I got the guppies about 4 days ago, the tank has been cycled for a long time. The water has no ammonia or anything and i got new guppies and one died it has a really red gill and fat stomach some of the others have reddish gills and are a bit bloated; what should I do? I'm scared this is going to wipe my whole tank out..

Obviously this won't suit other species, so choose tankmates accordingly much to be said for keeping Guppies and Mollies in single-species set-ups. Some, like Bob, actually feel they cause more problems than they solve. In any event, Wasting-type diseases such as Mycobacteriosis are very difficult to cure even with real, medically-testing medications, let alone Pimafix, Melafix and the like.

Then you can prevent or avoid the problem through better choices, planning and execution. I also have prime to protect the fish from the ammonia if it does cycle again. I also have some stress coat too. Would that help to clear it up, should I dose it right now? If a fish is basically okay, feeding and responding to the medication you're using, I'd recommend finishing off that course of medication as described by the manufacturer before switching to another course of medications, and even then, I'd wait a few days between them to see if the fish is recovering under its own steam anyway.

With all this said, Tetracycline is an antibiotic and should be tolerably safe, though its effects on the filter bacteria may be undesirable it does, after all, kill bacteria and Stress Coat is pretty mild stuff, not really a medication so much as "ointment" for fish like you'd rub onto a child's cut or graze, and about as useful i.

Prime is a water conditioner rather than a medication, and should be safe to use during all water changes. Would adding the tetracycline cause an immediate ammonia spike? It says on the bottle if it is used for a while it will cause it, so it won't cause it immediately? If you have another aquarium then chances are you can take some live filter media from that tank's filter and put in into the filter in this aquarium, assuming the two filters are more or less compatible. Alternatively, have some zeolite "ammonia remover" filter media to hand and stuff into a simple box or canister filter, and use this during the period of medication.

Generally, be prepared to replace this every days, depending on the amount used and the messiness of the fish being treated. Seriously, nine-tenths of the premature fish deaths in the hobby are caused by poor water quality. But then again neither did the other guppy that died. Big source of confusion here among aquarists.

What Prime and others don't do is neutralise ammonia produced in real time by respiring, excreting aquarium fish. May have some slight positive benefit I suppose in the hours after a water change, but the Prime is otherwise used up, metabolised by the filter bacteria. I actually bought a new test kit and tested and compared it with tap water and it was identical so they must have contaminated their sample by not washing the tube out properly.

Ammonia is, of course, toxic whether it comes from the tap water or your fish, but most modern water conditioners neutralise tap water ammonia; what's added subsequently by your fish is where your filter steps in and earns its keep. Everything else is just a waste of money. These will perk up Guppies if they're merely unhappy with ambient conditions. It's also a good idea to think about opportunistic bacterial infections, some of which are treatable. I said they need treatment asap or they will die. Anyway I followed up a week later and he told me they ALL died except one.

I took them into a quarantine tank and have been battling to keep the ammonia under check and treat. Needless to say the Tetracycline treatment didn't work, well at least not on these. Ich treatment didn't work. I am starting to think it is Columnaris disease and I am going to get Methylene blue or potassium permanganate tomorrow to do a bath with them.

How do I do this exactly? Methylene Blue is a mild anti-fungal more than anything else; it's used in breeding tanks for example to keep eggs from going mouldy. Problem is that Columnaris isn't a fungus. As for Potassium Permanganate, it's toxic stuff, nasty to you, your fish and your filter. So tomorrow fingers crossed I can get that stuff I can give it a try. Hopefully that doesn't mean sacrificing a uni lecture. Its either that or waiting till after 10pm to treat them As ever, give your aquarium a decent clean and water change before using it, and then remove carbon from the filter if used.

My loaches have been swimming around a lot and respirating more than usual. If they do, how can I treat them in the main tank? They still don't look good and obviously didn't like the potassium permanganate bath. If this doesn't work, and they are still alive I will try it. A vet can supply equivalents -- Maracyn 1 is Erythromycin, Maracyn 2 is Minocycline. But there are often non-antibiotic antibacterial medications sold as alternatives. Retrieved 6 October Retrieved 8 October Retrieved 29 November Retrieved 23 October Retrieved 21 October Gaon Music Chart in Korean.

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