The Secret of Snake Canyon

Three crawfish claws swirl about.

Nebraska Through Our Eyes

A foot-long ledge of waterfalls cascades downriver from the main fall. We see a school of several hundred brown trout. They dart by so fast — here then gone.

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Cedar trees atop seem to be stabilizing and holding it together. The channel narrows and deepens. The soil and the trees are above us and we see a caprock ledge supporting this whole structure. We realize, with high water, this would not be a safe place to be in. More cedar trees overhang the river. The cavern is dark and deep. The sky is gone now. Nordeen and I leave the water and find a ledge to shimmy along. Kelley swims through the chute to avoid poison ivy, perhaps more toxic to him than a rattlesnake bite.

Meanwhile, Kelley glides through the chute and reports on the life below him. A giant rainbow trout is pointing its nose upstream. The beast is 15 or 18 inches from tail to nose. They scamper under the rocks like rabbits running under the brush of a shelterbelt. The river opens into a wider canyon with stable caprock and just a few small boulders.

We can see the sky and the horizon. The water is still clear when we come to a broad pool probably 50 feet oblong and knee deep. We stop for a look upstream and see the water rippling toward us as hundreds of trout in a school are headed our way. In seconds, the school is surrounding Kelley. It splits, dodges his legs, then regroups behind him. This continues for 20 seconds and then it is done. The school is gone now, headed downstream like us.

As we come around a big bend, the land above the river valley flattens out. We can see grass-covered sand hills and are reminded that we are in Nebraska. More springs drip from the sand and create puddles that ooze into the river.

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• The Secret of Snake Canyon by Terrell L Bowers.
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They make a gumbo mixture. Our feet sink to the ankle. There are plants, moss and bugs growing.

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It looks like thin cake batter twisting in a bowl. The water is sandy here, then it slows. A sandbar forms and spreads across the river. From this view, we could be on the Platte or the Elkhorn River. A little later, on one sandbar is a crust that holds our steps for a moment, then we sink through. We jump from the bar back to the water then up to the river bank.

Ryan sits atop one, with his wet feet swinging freely. We take a short cut across open land where the grass turns lush. Cattle have grazed it to six inches. A heron flies by.

"Dateline NBC" The Secret of the Snake River (TV Episode ) - IMDb

We hop a barbed-wire fence and are back to the river. The sandbars are gone. The boulders return, and the ankle-breakers. Ahead is Snake River Falls as the river finally finds a way to cut through the caprock for good on its own journey to the Niobrara. We steer clear of the ledge and begin a hike up from the canyon, through deep trails cut along sandstone walls. We reach for handholds that become powder under our grip.

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In order to create a Trip, or to add one, you need to sign up and log in. Get a Copy No Thanks. About This Destination Dramatic, wide riverfall plunges into a deep canyon. You Might Also be Interested in Brought to you by the fam We cook all of our own BBQ. The cleanest, most modern campground on the Niobrara.